Aiete Palace and its surrounding gardens are well worth a visit when in San Sebastián. Declared a Monument of Cultural Interest in 2006, the 80-hectare mansion is nestled between the exclusive districts of Urumea and Ibaeta. It is bounded by a motorway to the south; the Miraconcha promenade to the north; the Eukotren railway to the east; and the Lugaritz hills to the west.

The talented French architect Adolphe Ombrecht, creator of the Linares Palace in Madrid, was commissioned by the Duke and Duchess of Bailén in 1878 to design a neo-classical summer residence right on St. James’ Way. It was then acquired by the Countess of Casa Valencia in 1912. Some years later the city council attempted to purchase the property for the use of Queen María Cristina but it was unsuccessful. It finally acquired the palace in 1940 from the heirs of Emilio Alcalá Galiano and it became the summer residence of dictator General Franco and his family.

Aiete Palace and Park

Palacio de Aiete
Palace Library

The vast and splendid Aiete Park comprises 80,000m2 of idyllic wooded paths, manicured European-style gardens and glassy ponds. Created by the prominent French landscape gardener Pierre Ducasse, the compound is divided into two main areas: the area that houses the mansion, the chapel, the gate house, and even a pond for swans and ducks. The second forest-like area houses a man-made grotto and hundreds of different plants and trees, including Araucarias, and lime, birch, oak and ash trees. It’s an amazing experience to stand under the impressive 6-m wide Lawson cypress tree and towering redwood trees – no wonder local city dwellers head to this urban oasis for a dose of serenity.

In fact, the park was revered at the time because the garden Decasse envisioned was a return to the rustic essence of nature and landscaped gardens. He integrated rustic components to create a picturesque landscape that respected the natural features of the landscape and existing forest to create a unique green space that surprises and delights, while creating a rolling meadow opening up to the sea and showcasing an architectural gem.

The residence of heads of state

Before Miramar Palace was built in 1893, Aiete Palace was the summer residence of many Spanish monarchs, including Isabel II, Alfonso XII, María Cristina and Alfonso XIII. It also welcomed Queen Victoria of England and Empress Eugenia de Montijo on 27 March 1889. Dictator General Francisco Franco and his family also used this as their summer residence between 1940 and 1973. The palace hosted several Council of Ministers meetings and dictator General Franco departed from here to meet with Adolf Hitler in Hendaye (France). It is also rumoured that Franco took the decision to not ‘directly’ partake in World War II while at the palace.

The palace’s walls did indeed witness important moments of Spanish history. The most recent was the Donostia-San Sebastián International Peace Conference held on 17 October 2011, aimed at promoting a resolution to the Basque conflict. It included international personalities such as Kofi Annan, Gerry Adams and Jonathan Powell; leaders of Basque political parties and trade unions; and representatives of French political parties.

 

 

An enclave for San Sebastián

Following the death of Franco in 1975, the San Sebastián city council recovered possession of the estate and converted it into a public space that could be enjoyed by all. Since 2010, the palace has hosted the House of Peace and Human Rights, devoted to promoting education and awareness on human rights and peace processes. The City council also erected the semi-underground House of Culture on the northern section of the place grounds.

Aiete Palace: ideal for all ages

If you are visiting San Sebastián, this is a must-see sight for all ages. There are four different gates to access the park, which includes a playground area for children, a public library, a story tower, a bonsai garden, a restaurant, and several exhibition halls. We won’t deny there is a certain amorous feel reigning in the air so don’t be surprised to see recently-wed couples getting their pictures taken.

Children can enjoy supervised games and activities at the childcare centre and run loose in the playground. There are also workshops for the entire family to enjoy together on Sundays at 11 a.m. The former stables were converted into a day centre for the elderly that offers a suite of activities. Aiete Park has a little something for everyone and is a testament of San Sebastián’ impeccable 20th-century architecture.