Trastevere
Trastevere is one of the most-charismatic neighbourhoods in the Eternal City. Its winding streets, warm, terracotta-coloured façades, creeping ivy and bougainvillea, and traditional shops make it impossible not to fall in love with this captivating district. It is particularly wonderful in the afternoons, when its terrace cafés begin to fill with tourists and locals alike, and its streets and squares come alive with the buzz of people at leisure.
However, Trastevere was originally a simple working-class neighbourhood located, as its name suggests (Trans Tiberum), on the other side of the river. For this reason, it was always somewhat isolated from the rest of the city until Pope Sixtus IV took it upon himself to connect both banks with a bridge — Ponte Sisto.
Some say it was the Americans fighting in the Second World War and the Neo-realist Italian films that popularised the neighbourhood and turned it into a tourist attraction. Whatever it was, it led to the typical rent rises and influx of visitors.
Nevertheless, in spite of the inevitable gentrification of the area, Trastevere continues to maintain a singular, almost village-like, identity that sets it apart from the rest of Rome. It still retains all its old-world charm, and is one of those districts that just has to be explored aimlessly. Let your senses guide you, taking in all its subtle magic and quietly enjoying the extraordinarily beautiful urban landscape.
Although there are an infinite number of ways you can wend your way through the streets of this neighbourhood, a stop in Piazza di Santa Maria to relax at one of the terrace bars, or just kick back on the steps of the fountain, is an absolute must for soaking up the atmosphere. The buildings around the square, some with peeling paint and worn blinds, are a testimony to the passage of time and imbue the place with a sense of history that heightens its unique charm, rather than detracting from it. In the corner, the Basilica di Santa Maria rises tall. It is the most famous temple in the neighbourhood and its façade was designed by Carlo Fontana. It is well-worth taking the time to contemplate the attractive mosaics of the apse, created by Pietro Cavallini, and its spectacular golden ceiling with star-shaped coffers.
Just 100 metres from the square you will find the start of the picturesque Via della Scala, a traditional shopping street with quaint antique shops, boutiques and grocery stores among others. This street leads to the Porta Settimiana (gate in the old city wall) where it becomes Via della Lungara. Here you will find the Palazzo Corsini — one of the buildings forming the National Roman Museum — and the Villa Farnesina, decorated with frescoes by none other than the great master Raphael.
Before leaving Trastevere, retrace your steps to take the Via Garibaldi up to the Church of San Pietro in Montorio, where you will discover Bramante’s Tempietto, a small temple in the church’s courtyard. Christian tradition states that it was erected on the site of the crucifiction of St. Peter, and it is considered one of the best examples of architectural classicism of the Renaissance.