Iglesia de Santiago: cradle of the Order of Santiago
La iglesia de Santiago is found just 5 minutes’ walk north from Plaza Mayor, outside the city walls among the palm trees of the Plaza de Santiago. Emerging out of this open space, as if it were floating on the fluted columns of its buttresses, is the Romanesque Iglesia de Santiago.
Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful churches in Cáceres, the Iglesia de Santiago is a popular place for weddings and other religious ceremonies. With ribbed vaults that interlace with gothic arches and the altar sculpted by Alonso Berruguete, the most famous Spanish sculptor from the second half of the 16th century, its fame is not undeserved, by any means.
Construction began on the church in 1170, when King Ferdinand II of León decided to protect the city which he had recently wrestled from the hands of the Moorish Almohad dynasty. Once the city was taken, Ferdinand left it in the care of a religious military order called The Brotherhood of the Sword, later to be known as the Order of Santiago. In 1174, however, the Moors recaptured the city. Nevertheless, in those four short years the Order left its mark on the city with the foundation of what is today the Iglesia de Santiago.
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Cáceres
Barceló Cáceres V Centenario
- Completely refurbished
- Spectacular swimming pool
- Perfect for short breaks
- Meeting and events centre
An ornate ceiling of fine arches
Construction of the church you can see today was begun in the 12th century and continued well into the 18th, which is the reason for its variety of architectural styles. However, in the 16th century archdeacon Francisco de Carvajal brought in a famous architect who gave it its current shape.
Carvajal didn’t let his role in the construction of the church – principally economic – go unnoticed, however, as can be seen in his family crest emblazoned on the buttresses and inside the church itself, though it is found among the many ‘Pilgrim Shells’ that connect the church with the pilgrimage to Santiago.
The Iglesia de Santiago has two entrances, located on either side of the building, which consist of magnificent pointed Gothic arches. Here you can find one of the most iconic parts of the building. Its huge buttresses, which bear the weight of the walls and arched ceilings, are topped with fluted columns that give the sense that they are floating weightlessly. The church tower contains an interesting ‘pyramid’ at its peak which is surrounded by gargoyles. Inside, there is just one central nave with gothic arches that form a gallery around it, which is emblazoned by the crests of the wealthy families of the day. Here are some of the other interesting sights to be found inside:
- The vaulted ceiling. These symmetrical vaults intertwine on the ceiling with beautiful delicacy, giving a wonderful gothic appearance to the church as a whole. They are especially ornate above the choir and in the main chapel.
- The sculptures. The Iglesia de Santiago is home to certain highly valuable sculptures, including the Christ of Miracles, Our Lady of Dawn and Jesus of Nazareth, which were sculpted between the 15th and 16th centuries
- The Main Chapel. The main chapel is separated from the rest of the nave by a 16th century plateresque railing, adorned with other medallions and family crests. Here is where you can find the stunning altarpiece by Alonso de Berruguete.
The Berruguete Altarpiece
Alonso de Berruguete, son of a well-known painter, was arguably one of the most famous sculptors in 16th century Spain. In 1507 he travelled to Italy, then the centre of European art, to study painting and it was there that he came into contact with the great artists of the Renaissance, Michelangelo, Bramante and Leonardo da Vinci.
The altarpiece he subsequently created is made up of two main levels that feature polychromatic sculptures and exquisite designs in high relief and are divided by columns and caryatides. The altarpiece was eventually dedicated and installed posthumously but that was after a long dispute over payments from the church to Berruguete that almost resulted in him not finishing it at all.
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Iglesia de Santiago. (Imagen cedida por Ayuntamiento de Cáceres)
Nevertheless, the work is a masterpiece that tells the story of Christ’s life in a series of key episodes. On the lower level of the altarpiece, starting at the column on the left, there is a scene depicting the Adoration of the Three Wise Men; in the centre there is Saint James on horseback, rallying troops; and on the right there is an image of San Francis receiving the stigmata.
On the upper level, there is a scene from Palm Sunday on the left, showing Jesus entering Jerusalem; in the centre, you can see the Virgin and the Divine Child in her arms; and on the right there is an image of Christ risen from the grave. Above the altar there is a scene of Christ on the Calvary, featuring images of Saint John and the Virgin Mary, among others. There is also a score of angels that modestly support the family crest of Francisco de Carvajal, who did not want to leave any doubt who funded the project in the minds of the worshippers.
The Brotherhood: warrior monks in the Order of Santiago
In the first half of the 12th century, the kingdoms of Portugal and León showed interest in expanding their territories to include Cáceres. After bitter fighting, the Portuguese managed to take the city but, after diplomatic relations, the Kingdom of León finally took it. In order to prevent any new attacks to the area from the Moors, King Ferdinand II of León decided to found a religious and military order that would vow to protect Cáceres.
Cáceres is found on an ancient Roman road that was since adopted by the Christians as a pilgrim road to the church of Santiago de Compostela. The initial role of these ‘warrior monks’ was to protect Christian pilgrims on this road to the north. The brotherhood began with the name of the ‘Brothers of Cáceres’ or the ‘Brothers of the Sword.’ The order would later adopt the name of Santiago, the patron of the church, which still bears its symbol of the pilgrim shell today.
Information of interest
How to get to the Iglesia de Santiago
- On foot. Just 5 minutes’ walk north of Plaza Mayor, following Calle Arco de la Espada and continuing on through Calle Zapatería towards the right. From here, take Calle Godoy on the left, which will take you to Plaza de Santiago, where the church is.
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