Turkey’s Princes’ Islands are far from buzzing Istanbul. This perfect refuge is a place where nature lives in harmony alongside old wooden houses, calm streets where people travel by bicycle or horse and cart, and hidden coves lapped by the inland sea that joins the waters of the Black and Aegean seas.
During the Byzantine Empire, these isolated islands in the middle of the Marmara Sea were used to exile and imprison princes and disgraced aristocrats. Several Byzantine empresses lived in Büyükada convent during their exile, and even Bolshevik leader Leon Trotsky sought refuge here when he was expelled from the USSR by Stalin. However, it wasn’t always a prison. As the years went by, it started to make a name for itself among the wealthier classes as a restful spot and they built summer houses and little palaces here by the sea.
The Princes’ Islands: the archipelago
The Princes’ Islands are twenty kilometres from Istanbul (internal link: what to see), and are also known as Adalar, which means ‘archipelago’ in Turkish. These nine tiny islands are home to fewer than 14,000 people. The largest island, Büyükada, is five square kilometres in size; it’s isolated from the rest of the world and has no motor vehicles or digital media. The neighbouring islands are: Heybeliada, Burguzada, Kinaliada, Sedef, Yassiada, Taysan, Kasik and Siyriada, and these last two islands are uninhabited.
Which islands can you visit?
Only four of the nine islands have ferry links from Istanbul: Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burguzada and Kinaliada. It’s possible to travel to the other islands once you’re actually in the archipelago but it isn’t very common because they don’t have many places of interest to tourists and are practically private, belonging to a group of people who own homes there.
What to do in the Princes’ Islands: Büyükada
Turks often make the most of the weekend and escape to the islands of Istanbul to enjoy the beach, the sea breeze and the wonderful sea views as they stroll among forests and hills. Büyükada, the largest of the nine, is dotted with historic villas, churches and monasteries and its architecture will transport you to another age.
Beaches
There are public and private beaches around the island, some are sandy while others are stony – just pick your favourite:
- Eskibag: this private beach in the south of the island is 25 min by boat from the port.
- Halik Koyu: the biggest and cleanest beach on the island. It has sun beds, umbrellas, showers and restaurants.
- Aya Nikola: normally quite busy in the summer because it’s a public beach, it has some of the calmest waves.
- Prenses Koyu: the private beach of the Prenses Boutique Hotel, it has a boat-taxi service to travel around the island’s different beaches.
- Yada Beach Club: this private beach club has live music on weekends and a wide range of sushi. The owner also owns Yada restaurant in Istanbul.
- Naki Bey: this family beach with a buffet restaurant is a ten-minute walk from the centre.
- Yoruk Ali: the sandiest beach on the island and a great spot for families with children.
Hiking routes
Motor vehicles are prohibited so discovering the island on foot is a wonderful experience. We recommend following a circular hiking route that climbs Aya Yorgi hill and takes in the main points of interest.
Don’t miss the old clock tower in the market square; the Neo-Gothic Catholic church of San Pacifico; Hamidiye mosque, the biggest in the archipelago; the majestic Orthodox church of Ayios Domitrios; Hesed Le Avraam synagogue, a beautiful yellow building with details around the windows; Sabuncakis mansion; and Prinpiko orphanage, the largest wooden building in Europe.
Stop to eat in an old theme park at Luna Park restaurant and carry on towards the monastery of St George, also known as Ayi Yorgi, where you can watch a spectacular sunset. As you descend towards the island’s historic centre, you can admire Con Pasa Kosku mansion, Trotsky’s historic and ruined house and the Armenian church of Surp Asdvadzadzin.
Restaurants
Don’t leave Büyükada without having some fresh fish at one of the small beach-side restaurants, or trying raki, an aniseed-flavoured drink that is typical to Turkey. We recommend lively Prinkipo Meyhanesi restaurant, which has live music on Fridays and Saturdays. It has raki, Greek mezze and a range of traditional aperitifs.
If you’d like to eat with spectacular views, head to restaurant and viewpoint Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu at the top of Aya Yorgi hill, next to the monastery. It has traditional cuisine and delicious köfte (meatballs). Eskibağ Teras is set on a cliff top and also has impressive views; it’s a great spot if you’re after a typical brunch with fresh fruit, jam, brochettes and tasty mezze, and they also serve kebabs and fresh fish.
And to finish with something sweet, don’t miss Büyük ada Pastanesi patisserie. We recommend having a çay (typical tea) and ordering some Turkish delight, biscuits or any of their home-baked goods.
Horse and cart ride
If you’re tired of walking and cycling, why not travel the island in a horse and cart, the local form of public transport? Discover the mansions and tourist attractions with a gentle breeze on your face, just like a member of the Ottoman royal family. The price depends, to a large degree, on your haggling skills.
Ferry ride from Istanbul
The Princes’ Islands are 1 1/2 hours by ferry from Istanbul. The fastest and least expensive way to get there is from Kabatas dock in bustling Besiktas neighbourhood. Boats also depart from Kadiköy, Bostanci and Eminönü docks. Kabatas has two stations, a local one and another for tourists. The local one is next to the metro entrance; it’s far cheaper and you can buy a ticket from the machine using the Istanbul Card. If you prefer the other option, head to the window where you will be served in English and even be offered various excursions. Bear in mind that the fastest and newest ferries make very few stops and are more expensive.
