A weekend in Ourense
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Weekends offer us a rare opportunity to unwind, recharge our batteries and to come back refreshed and ready to take on the world. Ourense is one of those cities that can help you to re-energise. This provincial capital has a reviving effect on everyone who comes to enjoy the calm atmosphere of its streets lined with stone buildings, its lively squares, and the bars where every mouthful is a delight for the tastebuds. In addition, if you’re in real need of some relaxation, you’ll find plenty of thermal spas in Ourense where the therapeutic properties of the waters can help with a variety of physical ailments. And to lift your spirits, why not try a delicious Ribeiro wine in any of the taverns scattered around the Os Viños area?
If you want to include a few of the city’s essential sights in your itinerary, make a note to visit the Cathedral of San Martiño, which is home to some impressive treasures; the exquisite Plaza Mayor [Main Square] with its colonnades; the churches and shopping streets such as Calle Colón, which offer distinctive and traditional craft items. If you’re well organised, you can even fit in a morning’s excursion to a nearby town where you can get a feeling for the lifestyle of smaller places such as O Carballiño or Ribadavia.
Itinerary day 1
10.00 a.m.-11.00 a.m.
San Lázaro park
This space, half park and half square, is regarded as the centre of Ourense. Around it, the city goes about its business in the many administrative buildings. Unexpected features of the park are a Baroque fountain that came from the Cistercian monastery at Oseira, and the Franciscan Church, transferred here in 1929.
11.30 a.m.-12.30 p.m.
Souvenir shopping
While you’re in the area, you could spend some time looking around the streets close to San Lázaro Park, which have a good selection of shops. If you love fashion, you’ll already know that Ourense has nurtured some of the industry’s top designers, such as Roberto Verino and Adolfo Domínguez. This is the place to come if you want to buy souvenirs and to explore Rúa de Santo Domingo.
2.00 p.m.-4.00 p.m.
Lunch at A Taberna
This traditionally-decorated restaurant specialises in food from the land — with no shortage of Galician stews, spider crab croquettes, grilled Galician scallops, turnip tops with seafood from the Atlantic Ocean, or good sirloins or fillets of Galician beef. Ribeiro wines feature heavily on the wine list, but there is also a selection of Portuguese and French wines.
4.30 p.m.-6.30 p.m.
The village of Seixalbo
Just 4 kilometres from Ourense is this rural settlement of medieval origin, which lies on the Vía de la Plata-Camino Mozárabe [Silver Pilgrimage Route]. It is a delightful place to walk around and see the traditional architecture. It has a multitude of captivating spots, providing the best photo opportunities imaginable.
7.00 p.m.-8.30 p.m.
A thermal spa in As Burgas
To round off your weekend, we suggest a last bath at a thermal spa. You could choose the As Burgas spa, in the heart of the city, or you could head to A Chavasqueira, which is close to the city and is also free. During the summer, there is an area for sunbathing.
9.00 p.m.-11.00 p.m.
Dinner at the Lagarza restaurant
This restaurant offers two equally appealing settings: a gastrobar where you can have skewered snacks, toasted snacks or, for example, oxtail ravioli; and the restaurant, which offers a full menu including beef sirloin, wild sea bass ceviche, beef cheek, and excellent rice dishes. Without the shadow of a doubt, a superb way to round off your break in Ourense.
Itinerary day 2
10.00 a.m.-11.00 a.m.
Plaza Mayor [Main Square]
Our tour starts in the Plaza Mayor [main square] — regarded as the heart of the historic quarter, and home to many of Ourense’s most iconic buildings. Although the Bishop’s Palace, the church of Santa María Madre and the Casa Consistorial [Town Hall] are all noteworthy, we can assure you that the beautiful colonnades and street terraces of the side of the square known as “Espolón” will remain in your memory forever.
11.30 a.m.-12.30 p.m.
Cathedral of San Martiño
From the Plaza de las Damas, you can reach the southern door of the Cathedral of San Martiño (also, take the opportunity to see the neighbouring square, the Plaza del Trigo). Inside, the cathedral has some not-to-be-missed treasures such as the Pórtico del Paraíso (take time to look at it because it truly is a wonder), the High Chapel, and the attractive Chapel of Santo Cristo.
1.00 p.m.-2.00 p.m.
Church of Santa Eufemia
With its impressive Baroque façade, this church was once part of a Jesuit school — and could never pass unnoticed. Striking features include its unusual curved forms, the use of granite, the massive columns, and the split pediment with a cross in the centre. It is the city’s second-largest church. Not far away stands the church of Santa María Madre (Santa María Nai), the third of Ourense’s trio of major churches.
2.30 p.m.-4.00 p.m.
Lunch at the Tapanegra Gastrobar
Close by, in the pleasant setting of the Plaza de la Magdalena, you will find this gastrobar serving excellent food with a local flavour. Try the Galician-style octopus, the sea scallops, the Galician-style pasty... or even the grilled pig’s ear on toast with crispy soya. They also serve good breakfasts.
4.30 p.m.-6.30 p.m
Thermal springs along the river Miño
As you let your lunch go down, we recommend the Ruta Termal del Miño [Miño Thermal Trail], which can be covered on foot, on a bicycle, or even on the train (the Tren de las Termas), which departs from the Plaza Mayor. Don’t forget to take a rucksack with your swimsuit, towel and flip-flops, and you can try out each of the thermal spas as you come across them.
7.00 p.m.-8.30 p.m.
Puente Mayor and the Puente del Milenio [Millennium Bridge]
If you’re interested in works of engineering, we suggest that you might like to see some of the bridges that cross the river Miño as it courses through Ourense. There is a striking contrast between the Puente Mayor and the Puente del Milenio [Millennium Bridge]. The former dates from Roman times, while the latter was built at the start of the twenty-first century. Both are remarkable, but they are individual and have witnessed very different ages.
21.00 p.m.-23.00 p.m.
Dinner en Nova
This restaurant, headed up by Julio Sotomayor and Daniel Guzmán, two homegrown chefs, has a shiny Michelin star and a cuisine described as “de raíces” [with roots]. They offer three tasting menus that vary according to the seasons: “Raíces”, “Nova” and “Cima”, with prices that are very reasonable given the quality of the establishment.
Itinerary day 3
6.30 p.m.-8.30 p.m.
As Burgas and the Interpretation Centre
From the point of view of history, it makes sense to begin your weekend with a visit to the As Burgas springs, as the archaeological remains found here show that this is where the Romans founded the city. The water that gushes from these springs at a temperature of over 60ºC comes up from a kilometre below the surface. Visit the three sections: the Burga de Abaixo, the esplanade with its swimming pool, and the Burga de Arriba. It is also a good idea to visit the As Burgas Interpretation Centre to learn all about the history of the place.
9.00 p.m.-11.00 p.m.
Tapas in the “Os Viños” area
Between the Plaza del Hierro and the Cathedral lies a maze of streets where every bar and tavern deserves a monument to commemorate their tapas and small plates. In Orellas, order the pig’s ear; in O Eironciño, try the squid; in Bar Fuentefría, the anchovies; the octopus in A Casiña do Pulpo; in the Roa grill, the suckling pig; in Casa Toñita, the lightly fried eggs, and so on.