Boa Vista, the third-largest island in Cape Verde and arguably the most unspoilt, covers 55 square kilometres of striking contrasts—dunes stretching to the horizon, deserted white-sand beaches and an ocean that shifts through every shade of blue. Beyond its mesmerising scenery, the island is home to a history shaped by seafaring, pottery and the unhurried pace of life in its small villages. From its capital, Sal Rei, to the remains of the Cabo Santa María shipwreck, Boa Vista is a perfect blend of nature, history and Creole culture. Exploring the island means wandering through villages where life moves with the rhythm of the tides, crossing the Viana Desert with its sand blown in from the Sahara, or descending into the caves of Varandinha, where centuries of crashing waves have sculpted the rock. Here, visitors will find a land of warm winds, Cape Verdean hospitality, or morabeza, and an untamed spirit that still resists mass tourism.
Sal Rei: the colonial heart of Boa Vista
Sal Rei, with just 10,000 inhabitants, is the main town on Boa Vista and the gateway to the island. Once a key hub for salt exports (hence the name, “salt king” in Portuguese), its port remains the beating heart of the town, where fishermen unload their daily catch and boats sway gently with the tide. The historic centre retains a colonial charm, with sandy streets and colourful houses that recall the island’s Portuguese past. Praça de Santa Isabel, home to a handicrafts market and a small pastel-blue and white church, is the best place to soak up daily life on the island.
Just off Sal Rei’s coast is the islet of Djeu, home to the ruins of the Duke of Braganza Fort, built by the Portuguese in the 19th century to defend the island from pirate attacks. From the beach, you can take a boat trip to the islet, now an excellent spot for snorkelling or simply enjoying its secluded shores.
Fundo de Figueiras: the most traditional side of inland Boa Vista
Tucked within Boa Vista’s arid interior, between hills and palm groves, Fundo de Figueiras feels like an oasis. This village, named after the fig trees that once thrived here, is one of the island’s greenest, thanks to its proximity to Ribeira do Rabil, a seasonal watercourse that supports small gardens and more abundant vegetation than in other parts of Boa Vista. The Church of Saint John the Baptist is one of its most iconic buildings, reflecting the deep-rooted faith of the local community.
What makes Fundo de Figueiras special isn’t just its setting but its unhurried pace, welcoming people and home-cooked food. Here, you can try cachupa, Cape Verde’s national dish, in its most authentic form. The brightly coloured houses contrast sharply with the desert landscape, while the streets burst with life—especially during the Saint John the Baptist festivities on 23 June, which feature an evening mass, a procession, horse races, a communal lunch, a parish auction and dancing. It’s a place where Boa Vista’s oldest traditions still thrive, and where the island’s laid-back rhythm is woven into everyday life.
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Cabo Santa María: the shipwreck that became an icon
On Boa Vista’s northern coast, the rusting remains of the Cabo Santa María rise like a steel skeleton from the turquoise waters. This Spanish cargo ship ran aground here in 1968 while transporting goods to South America. Over time, the ship’s structure, corroded by saltpetre and waves, has become a symbol of the island—an unmistakable image of Boa Vista that sparks the imagination of those who venture out to see it.
Beyond the shipwreck, this area is a haven for ocean lovers. Its waters are home to diverse marine life, with schools of tropical fish weaving through the ship’s remains. When the conditions are right, turtles come ashore to nest and humpback whales can be spotted gliding through the ocean just off the coast. The beach surrounding Cabo Santa María is breathtaking, with golden sand and an endless horizon, making it the perfect escape for those looking to experience the Atlantic in its purest form.
The Viana Desert: a slice of the Sahara in the Atlantic
Formed from fine sand carried over from Africa by the trade winds, the Viana Desert stretches for around five kilometres and is one of Boa Vista’s most striking landscapes. Unlike vast continental deserts, the dunes here don’t stretch endlessly but instead rise unexpectedly across the island, creating an almost surreal scene.
Exploring the Viana Desert is an immersive experience—the whisper of the wind over the dunes, the sensation of treading shifting sands and the mesmerising dance of light and shadow at sunset. In some areas, vegetation struggles to break through, such as hardy acacias that defy the arid terrain. It’s the perfect destination for unique adventures, whether riding across the dunes on a quad bike or sandboarding down them. At sunset, the golden light transforms the landscape, accentuating the contrast between the white sand and the deep blue sky.
The Varandinha Caves: a natural “cathedral” sculpted by the Atlantic
In the southwest of Boa Vista, the coastline grows wilder and more rugged. Here, the Atlantic and the trade winds have spent millennia sculpting the rock into dramatic formations—a surreal landscape of natural arches and caves carved by the waves, known as the Varandinha Caves. This magical setting is often likened to a natural cathedral.
The caves are accessible at low tide and offer a cool, shady retreat from the scorching sun. The best time to visit is at sunrise or sunset, when the light filters through the rocks, creating a mesmerising interplay of light and shadow on the water. Varandinha is also a nesting site for several species of seabird, making it an interesting destination for nature lovers. It is, without a doubt, one of Boa Vista’s most photogenic spots, perfect for those seeking a remote and spectacular landscape.
Best beaches in Boa Vista: miles of untouched coastline
Boa Vista is a paradise for lovers of untouched beaches. Its coastline, stretching over 50 kilometres, is dotted with golden sandy beaches and an Atlantic Ocean shimmering in infinite shades of blue. One of the most stunning is Praia de Chaves, a stretch of fine sand bordered by wind-carved dunes, creating a landscape that seems to float between the desert and the sea. Here, you’ll find the ruins of an old ceramics factory, a relic of the island’s industrial past.
Further south, the vast Praia de Santa Mónica extends for over 20 kilometres, remaining almost entirely untouched. It’s a wild, unspoilt beach with no buildings in sight, a true escape, perfect for those seeking their own private paradise. Its crystal-clear waters and rolling waves make it ideal for long seaside walks.
On the northern coast, Atalanta Beach is best known for the rusting remains of the Cabo Santa María shipwreck, its corroded iron frame emerging from the sand to serve as a reminder of time gone by. Also worth mentioning is Praia das Gatas, where the ocean has sculpted natural pools in the volcanic rock, creating a tranquil haven of crystal-clear waters.
For those looking for a livelier atmosphere, Estoril and Praia de Cruz, near Sal Rei, offer more services and opportunities for watersports.
Best activities in Boa Vista: nature, adventure and culture
Boa Vista isn’t just for relaxation—it’s an island of adventure. With its vibrant marine life, Boa Vista is a diver’s paradise, home to coral reefs and schools of brightly coloured fish weaving through sunken wrecks. From March to May, the waters surrounding the island set the stage for a breathtaking spectacle—humpback whales passing through with their calves on a majestic migration. Between June and October, Boa Vista’s beaches transform into one of the world’s largest nesting sanctuaries for sea turtles. Joining a night tour to watch them lay their eggs is one of the island’s most thrilling experiences.
On land, the dunes of the Viana Desert offer the chance to explore vast white sand landscapes on a quad bike or 4×4, allowing you to feel the immensity of this miniature Sahara. For those who prefer a more relaxed experience, winding trails between the island’s small inland villages reveal a glimpse of local life and the contrast between the arid landscape and its hidden oases. If you’re keen on local culture, a visit to Rabil’s pottery workshops offers a glimpse into one of Boa Vista’s oldest crafts. Music is also at the heart of the island and there’s no better way to end the day than enjoying a night of morna and funaná in the bars of Sal Rei.
