The spiritual centre of Fez and Morocco, Al-Qarawiyyin mosque is a large complex that also houses the oldest university in the world, with more history than even the Sorbonne or Oxford. It is so large that, over the centuries, it has remained half-hidden among the houses and streets of the Karaouine neighbourhood, where it is located, and the original boundaries are almost impossible to contemplate as a whole.
Like many other religious monuments, Al-Qarawiyyin mosque is off-limits to non-Muslims, except for the university library, which was recently restored and has been open to the public since 2016. Don’t forget that the entrance to the library is on Seffarine square. Tourists can get a general idea of the beauty of the complex by peering through the main gate on Derb Boutouil to see the mosque’s courtyard. You can also see the complex from afar, as its huge green pyramidal roof and minaret are unmistakable from any vantage point in the city.
- Al-Qarawiyyin mosque: history and meaning
- Architecture and design
- Points of interest in Al-Qarawiyyin mosque
- Activities and recommendations
- Practical information
- Where to stay in Fez
Al-Qarawiyyin mosque: history and meaning
With capacity for 20,000 people during prayer, the architectural complex in which Al-Qarawiyyin mosque is situated was founded in the year 859 by the Tunisian refugee Fatima Al-Fihriya, the daughter of a wealthy merchant who promised to spend her entire inheritance on the construction of a mosque. This claim has been refuted, however, by some historians, who insist that the religious centre was founded by a son of Idriss II who ruled this region of Morocco at the time and that Fatima’s story is more of a legend than the truth. In any case, the complex was expanded and decorated by the Almoravids in the twelfth century.
Experts believe that the peak of Al-Qarawiyyin as an intellectual and scholarly centre was during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, when the curriculum was at its greatest and its prestige reached its highest point. It was then that the Marinid dynasty built a series of madrasas in the area surrounding Karaouine’s main building, among them the Al-Attarine madrasa between 1323 and 1325. These buildings were used as the service buildings of the mosque, which remained the centre of intellectual life in Fez. Students were male but it is also said that ‘facilities were sometimes provided for women interested in listening to speeches from a special gallery (riwaq) from which the circle of scholars could be seen’.
Today, Al-Qarawiyyin mosque is considered, by Unesco and the Guinness World Book of Records, to be the oldest university still operating in the world. It should be noted that, in the ninth century, Fez was the capital of the Idrisid dynasty, considered the first Moroccan Islamic state.
Architecture and design
Housed in a striking building in the heart of Fez, the mosque’s interior design will take your breath away. It is an architectural masterpiece, to which intricate carvings and colourful tiles have been added. Too bad it cannot be seen from the inside. The building’s exterior, on the other hand, is quite simple, consisting of a series of white arches supported by columns, with a large central courtyard surrounded by academic buildings.
Points of interest in Al-Qarawiyyin mosque
If you are interested in visiting Al-Qarawiyyin mosque, you must remember that you cannot go inside, since it is off-limits to non-Muslims. What you can do is enter its large library, where there is a magnificent reading room. You can also see the architectural complex from any high point in the city.
Activities and recommendations
We recommend enjoying the neighbouring Seffarine square, also situated in the heart of the medina, very close to the river, as it has preserved traces of one of the oldest trades in Fez, brass pot making You can also take the opportunity to visit the Belghazi museum of crafts and antiques, housed in a beautiful seventeenth-century palace. There, you can view a series of old photographs, traditional instruments, typical costume, ceramic pieces, jewellery and manuscripts. And if you still have time, why not visit the dyers’ souk, which dates back to the tenth century and was recently restored.
Practical information
Al-Qarawiyyin mosque is situated in the maze-like medina of Fez, so keep your eyes open to enjoy both its chaos and its charms. We recommend sitting in any one of the cafés to watch life go by and to see what the daily hustle and bustle is like in Fez’s oldest neighbourhood. As you wander around, you will find souks selling local products and shops of all kinds along its winding alleyways and you are sure to come across a donkey or two.
There are a number of self-guided and signposted routes through the old town, each focusing on a specific aspect of the traditional city. For example, the brown route covers the landmarks and souks, the orange route, the walls and defences, the red route, crafts, and the blue route, knowledge and learning.
Where to stay in Fez
If you want to visit Al-Qarawiyyin mosque during your time in Fez and stay in a hotel where you are assured rest and comfort, we recommend, for its excellent value for money, the hotel Barceló Fès Medina. This very welcoming four-star establishment is situated next to the medina, five minutes from the train station and 20 minutes from Fès-Saïss international airport. It has 134 modern, well-equipped and very comfortable rooms. The hotel has an international restaurant, where you can also enjoy typical Moroccan cuisine and a Jazz Bar serving delicious cocktails. It also has a well-equipped spa for guests to relax with a treatment, sauna or hammam, and a gym. In short, a true oasis to help you feel at home.
