Fez is Morocco’s spiritual capital and one of its most traditional cities. So it makes perfect sense for it to be one of the best places in the country to sample the best and most varied of Moroccan cuisine. This cuisine can be enjoyed in venues ranging from the popular tea shops in the medina to the elegant tables set around the courtyards of ancient palaces.
If you’d like to eat other types of delicacies in Fez, you could also sit at the table of any of its more modern restaurants, many of which are located in the Ville Nouvelle.
Where and what to eat in Fez: here are a few recommendations for where and what to eat in Fez.
Typical dishes to eat in Fez
The typical cuisine of Fez is very varied in terms of its ingredients, flavours, and presentation. Also, despite the abundant presence of greens and other vegetables, it also makes for quite a hearty meal. In fact, it’s virtually impossible to leave a restaurant hungry in Fez (and Morocco in general).
These are the dishes commonly served in restaurants in Fez
Mezze
These are Arabic-style appetisers. They have spread throughout the Maghreb from the Middle East and are usually eaten at the beginning of lunch or dinner. They include fried delicacies (such as falafel, dumplings, and spring rolls) as well as chickpea hummus, olives, and cheese, to name but a few.
Moroccan salad
In season (during summer) this salad is prepared with tomato, chopped onion, mint leaves, coriander, and plenty of olive oil. And using fresh market ingredients during the rest of the year.
Harira
Every Moroccan house and restaurant has its own version of this soup, so comforting in the cold months, made from pulses (especially chickpeas and lentils), various vegetables, chicken or other meat, tomato, onion, and harissa. Harissa is a spice mixture with an intense (yet delicious) spicy flavour.
Tagines
There are countless versions of tagine, a stew of meats, vegetables, and pulses cooked in a distinctive cone-shaped clay pot placed over wood embers.
Couscous
This is the other major dish (in general) of Moroccan cuisine and the rest of the Maghreb. It bears a striking resemblance to an Iberian stew, as all the ingredients (various meats, vegetables such as carrots, turnips, potatoes, and chickpeas) are cooked together for hours. It’s accompanied by a generous portion of semolina (the couscous itself).
Pastilla
Decorated with icing sugar, cinnamon, and other spices, it’s easy to mistake this pie for a dessert. But inside is generously seasoned and highly aromatic shredded meat (chicken is the norm, although pigeon is a real delicacy).
Kefta (kebab)
Grilled over wood or charcoal, these skewers of meat pre-marinated with oil and various spices are a real treat. It’s a clear ancestor of Spanish “pinchos morunos”, or pork skewers, although, of course, here they are never made with pork.
Typical Moroccan pastries
Also inherited from the Arab world, these pastries are usually made from filo pastry or wheat flour, filled with plenty of nuts or angel hair pasta, fried, and decorated with lots of honey and icing sugar.
The best restaurants in Fez
Most of the traditional restaurants in Fez are located in the Fès el-Bali medina (link to the corresponding URL) and its famous Blue Gate (Bab Bou Jeloud Gate). The more international and modern cuisine tends to be found in the Ville Nouvelle. Whatever one you go for, it’s easy to get it right if you choose any of the following establishments:
La Cave (el Kbira, 37, Zkak Ima): a small restaurant serving traditional Moroccan cuisine specially adapted to the tastes of an international clientèle. The establishment, located in the heart of the medina, has a modern feel with no shortage of local flair. The price is quite reasonable considering the quality of the menu.
Le Tarbouche (43 Rue Talaa Kebira): also located in the heart of the medina, it offers a selection of Moroccan salads, tagines, and traditional spicy chicken pastillas. Apart from having lunch or dinner here, it’s a good place to have tea or a drink at any time of the day.
Dar Roumana (30 Derb el Amer, Zkak Roumane) located in a charming riad in one of the medina’s outlying areas, this restaurant guarantees an authentic traditional Moroccan culinary experience of the highest standard. As lovely as the food, which is varied and very authentic with very carefully selected produce, are the palace-like surroundings, among courtyards with fountains and rooms decorated with arches and tiles in beautiful tones.
Darori (2 Derb Sayour Place Rcif): located in a charming riad in one of the medina’s outlying areas, this restaurant guarantees an authentic traditional Moroccan culinary experience of the highest standard. As lovely as the food, which is varied and very authentic with very carefully selected produce, are the palace-like surroundings, among courtyards with fountains and rooms decorated with arches and tiles in beautiful tones.
Al Oud (Talaa Kebira, s/n): located in one of the main streets of old Fez, this is an ideal place to eat (local cuisine) and to have a coffee or afternoon tea with some typical Arab pastries. The friendliness and efficiency of the service is a particular highlight.
Culture Box (14 Rue de la Poste): the majority of the menu of this restaurant, located in one of the outlying areas of the medina, features classic Moroccan dishes. But the ambience, the clientèle, and the décor are much more modern than usual in this city. There are also some international dishes on offer.
Cafés in Fez
A good way to understand and enjoy the way of life of the people of Fez is to visit one or more of the many cafés and tea shops scattered around the city. They are places for meeting and socialising for the locals, which are usually quiet but can sometimes get quite noisy. Here are some of the most popular ones:
Cinema Café (8 Sidi Lkhayat): with a mixed and modern atmosphere, it’s an ideal place to have a coffee, tea, or a cold drink at any time, as well as to enjoy its menu of Moroccan and Italian-style fast food.
Medina Café (6 Mernissi, Boulud): very popular and touristy, situated very close to the Bou Inania Madrasa and the Blue Gate. Here people come, above all, to see and be seen from its large terrace. It also has an extensive menu of relaxed cuisine, for those longing for international flavours.
La Rochelle Palace (161 Hay Raha): this place is known for its quiet atmosphere (except on major football match days), which is traditional of the area, as well as for the quality of the coffee they serve. Foreign visitors are, of course, welcome.
Café Terrasse Panoramique (barrio Derb Touil, 3 Darb Boudelama): a traditional tea shop with a terrace that’s among the most popular in the medina. The atmosphere inside is reminiscent of a bygone era; it’s a very quaint experience to drink any of the tea and coffee varieties here.
Abdullah Thé & Café (Rue Machatine): everyone comes to this tiny place to watch the ritual (a real spectacle) of mint tea brewing performed by its owner. Despite its size, this tea shop is always among the most highly rated (and visited) by those who first discovered it on social media.
Where to stay in Fez
Among the best hotels in Fez, the Barceló Fès Medina undoubtedly stands out. A modern establishment that offers a total of 134 rooms, all of them decorated in a functional, modern way, with very original decorative touches (although without losing sight of Moroccan traditions), and which are very comfortable and spacious.
The hotel also has a restaurant serving international cuisine, where you can try some typical local dishes. To end the day you can visit the jazz bar, which always has good music and a wide selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks.
