Ljubljana, Central Europe’s green jewel, is a city that combines an elegant history with a creative present. Flanked by the river Ljubljanica and protected by its ancient castle, Slovenia’s capital city offers a whole mosaic of experiences that are guaranteed to charm every traveller. On its streets, the influence of the Austro-Hungarian Empire merges with the freshness of a young, vibrant city, one that has become an exemplar of sustainability and cultural life. With its pedestrianised historic quarter, a gastronomy that pays homage to its turbulent past and an innovative artistic scene, Ljubljana is much more than just a stopping-off point: it is a place to be explored at a leisurely pace, wandering haphazardly and soaking up its atmosphere.
The old town: Slovenian identity on the banks of the river Ljubljanica
Ljubljana’s old town is much more than a collection of cobbled streets: it is a journey through time and a vivid representation of Slovenian culture. This pedestrianised area, on the banks of the river Ljubljanica, is an urban landscape in which the Baroque and Modernist styles blend together, mingled with the distinctive influence of the architect Jože Plečnik, considered to be the city’s principal renovator during the twentieth century. Every last corner of this old quarter seems to have its own personality, with its characteristic red-roofed mansions and its narrow streets that encourage visitors to stumble upon unexpected discoveries.
In the city centre, the star attraction is Mestni trg Square, where the magnificent fifteenth-century, Baroque Town Hall stands as a symbol of the city’s administrative past. Opposite the Town Hall, the Robba Fountain, a work inspired by Roman fountains, symbolises the three main rivers of the province of Carniola, thus highlighting the connection between Ljubljana and its natural surroundings. This is not merely a spot where you can admire the architecture: this is also the epicentre for cultural events and local markets that contribute a unique dynamism.
As you start walking along Stari trg Street, the atmosphere changes: modern art and design make their presence felt in the little shops and galleries, while the restaurants and cafés occupy historic buildings and have terraces buzzing with life. This street is the perfect spot to try local specialities, such as ‘potica’ or a coffee, while you admire the views of the castle that overlooks the city from the hilltop.
Ljubljana also offers bewitching hidden gems. One example is Trubarjeva Street, a multicultural area with everything from alternative bars to craft workshops. Here, you can catch a glimpse of modern Ljubljana, a city open to the world while still remaining faithful to its roots.
As evening falls, the old town lights up with street lamps that project golden reflections on to the river Ljubljanica, making the bridges, such as the iconic Triple Bridge and the Dragon Bridge, the perfect scenarios for photographs and romantic walks. The atmosphere strikes a perfect balance between bohemian and classic; this is a place where visitors can simply wander at will, and experience the everyday magic of the Slovenian capital.
Ljubljana Castle: the Habsburg fortress that dominates the city
Imposing Ljubljana Castle stands on a hill overlooking the city, and has witnessed over 900 years of history. Originally built during the twelfth century as a medieval fortress, it has undergone many transformations, ranging from the Habsburg family residence to a prison. Nowadays, it is one of the city’s main tourist attractions.
Approaching the castle is an experience in itself: you can reach it on foot, climbing forest paths, or you can take the modern funicular railway that links the castle directly with the old town. Within the castle, as well as the imposing walls and towers and the Chapel of St. George, you will find exhibitions that recount the history of Ljubljana, as well as a viewing point that affords one of the finest panoramic views of the city and surrounding area. The castle also hosts cultural and gastronomic events, making every visit unique.
Metelkova mesto: urban art and counterculture in a former military barracks
Metelkova mesto, a former Austro-Hungarian military barracks converted into a cultural centre during the 90s, is the epicentre of alternative creativity in Ljubljana. This self-managed space is a kaleidoscope of urban art, with façades covered in graffiti, galleries and art workshops, tradition-defying sculptures and social centres. Located in a former military facility once used as barracks for troops of the Austro-Hungarian empire and then for Yugoslav soldiers, this is a refuge for counterculture, a place where local and international artists gather to express their vision of the world.
During the daytime, Metelkova is an open-air museum, a perfect place to stroll and take photos of its colourful walls. At night, it becomes a lively meeting spot with bars, concerts and events that attract a diverse community. This place is more than a testament to Slovenian creativity: it is also an example of how art can revitalise historic sites.
The Cathedral of St. Nicholas: a place to learn about the religious history of Slovenia
The Cathedral of St. Nicholas, with its distinctive green dome and twin towers, is one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable buildings. Located in the heart of the old town, this eighteenth-century Baroque church never fails to impress visitors with the richness of its architectural and decorative details.
Inside, the walls and ceilings are covered in dazzling frescoes depicting episodes from the religious history of Slovenia. The cathedral’s famous bronze doors, designed for the visit of Pope John Paul II in 1996, are the work of the Slovenian sculptor Mirsad Begić, and are full of symbols and figures that have featured in the history of the Ljubljana diocese. Apart from its importance as a religious building, the Cathedral also fulfils a historic function, linking the city’s spiritual past with its present.
The Dragon Bridge: Ljubljana’s art nouveau guardian
The Dragon Bridge is one of Ljubljana’s most beloved emblems, a place whose symbolic significance matches its architectural beauty. Built in 1901, during the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and following the art nouveau design of the architect Josef Melan, it was one of the first bridges in Europe to be built with reinforced concrete.
The splendid dragon sculptures that keep watch over the bridge are a Modernist masterpiece, and a nod to the legend of Jason and the Argonauts who, according to the myth, defeated a dragon in this region while they were sailing down the river Ljubljanica en route to the Adriatic Sea. Today, the bridge is an essential visit for taking photos and for seeing how the city’s mythological past co-exists with its present.
Prešeren Square: Ljubljana’s romantic side
Prešeren Square is the social epicentre of Ljubljana, a place where history, art and daily life converge. Dominated by the statue of the poet France Prešeren, a key figure in Slovenia’s Romantic movement, the square is a gathering point for locals and tourists alike.
From here, you can appreciate the beauty of the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation, with its distinctive pink colour and its Baroque style. The square is also the ideal point of departure for exploring the bridges and streets around, and offers an exceptional view of the Triple Bridge and the river Ljubljanica.
The Triple Bridge: an inspired intersection between the city’s past and its future
The Triple Bridge is one of the architect Jože Plečnik’s most masterful projects. He succeeded in converting a simple historic bridge into an architectural icon that brings together the ancient and modern worlds. Originally, the central bridge formed part of a medieval junction that linked the main trading routes. However, Plečnik added two lateral walkways in the 1930s, enhancing its functionality while granting it a unique aesthetic dimension.
This iconic trio of walkways not only connects the old town with the more modern part of the city: it also produces a harmonious flow of pedestrian traffic, avoiding congestion and creating a pleasant space in which to walk. The Triple Bridge, exquisitely decorated with limestone balustrades and elegant street lamps, offers exceptional views of the river Ljubljanica and the buildings that stand alongside it, particularly at sunset when the light picks out the architectural details of the city.
Tivoli Park: an oasis of nature and culture in the heart of the city
Designed during the nineteenth century in a landscaping style that blends French-inspired gardens with wooded areas, this vast green space stretches as far as the Rožnik and Šiška hills, offering visitors an idyllic escape from the pace of city life. In the heart of the park stands Tivoli Castle, a majestic Baroque palace; this impressive piece of architecture also houses the prestigious International Centre for the Graphic Arts. The park is also famous for its Jakopič Promenade, an elegant, tree-lined avenue that links the centre of the city with the heart of the park. The avenue often functions as a outdoor art gallery, with photographic exhibitions that change according to the seasons.
With its carefully designed gardens, decorative ponds and winding pathways, Tivoli Park is the perfect place for strolling or exercising — or simply for enjoying the peace and quiet. Strategically placed sculptures and seats encourage contemplation, while the flower gardens and shaded corners offer scenes of calmness. For those seeking a more active experience, the paths leading to the nearby hills offer panoramic views of Ljubljana, and are ideal for hiking or cycling.
Ljubljana Central Market: not to be missed if you want to try Slovenian gastronomy
Conceived by the renowned architect Jože Plečnik, Ljubljana’s Central Market is a lively showcase for Slovenian culture and gastronomy. This space offers a mixture of open-air markets and covered areas, spread out between Vodnikov Square and Pogačar Square. The stalls are piled high with fresh, seasonal products, ranging from local fruit and vegetables to cheeses, cold meats and honey, all brought in from the surrounding rural areas.
As well as being a source of fresh ingredients, the market is the ideal place to try local specialities such as kranjska klobasa, an iconic, typical sausage, or štruklji, a kind of cake with various fillings. Its location, close to the river Ljubljanica, and surrounded by terraces and arcades designed by Plečnik, make the market a perfect place to enjoy a stroll and the buzzing local ambience. At weekends, the market undergoes a transformation, hosting special events such as agricultural fairs and small-scale gastronomic tastings loved by locals and visitors alike.
Museums you must visit: an educational immersion in the spirit of Slovenia
Ljubljana is a veritable treasure trove for lovers of culture, with a wide range of museums that trace the historic and artistic development of Slovenia. The National Museum of Slovenia is an essential visit if you wish to get to know the country’s heritage, with its fascinating collections that include everything from prehistoric tools to items from medieval times. The most outstanding pieces include the famous Divje Babe flute, considered to be the world’s oldest musical instrument.
The Museum of Modern Art invites visitors to explore the creative world of contemporary Slovenian artists, while the Museum of the City of Ljubljana, located in an elegant Renaissance palace, houses Roman remains, such as parts of the ancient city walls. Exhibitions include historic maps, manuscripts and everyday objects that trace the development of Ljubljana down the centuries.
Where to eat in Ljubljana: a fusion of flavours unique in Europe
Ljubljana’s gastronomy reflects the cultural richness of Slovenia, with flavours that draw on Mediterranean, alpine, Hungarian and Balkan traditions. From welcoming bistros to haute-cuisine restaurants, the city offers a wide choice to satisfy all tastes.
Among the dishes you won’t want to miss, the highlight is the famous kranjska klobasa, normally served with sauerkraut and mustard, and the previously mentioned štruklji, a stuffed pasta dish made with ingredients that vary from region to region, (ranging from cheese to spinach or nuts). For a more sophisticated culinary experience, JB Restaurant, headed up by the well-known chef Janez Bratovž, offers a modern reinterpretation of Slovenian cooking, while Güjžina, in the heart of the city, specialises in traditional dishes from the Prekmurje region, such as the emblematic bograč or the sweet prekmurska gibanica. The gastronomy of Ljubljana not only nourishes the body, but also tells the story of the country’s cultural and regional diversity.
