Tucked away in the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park you can find one of the most charming villages in the Province of Almería. Agua Amarga is a small coastal village that consists of a cluster of white houses nestled together on the hills of the Natural Park. Once upon a time, Agua Amarga and its neighbours dedicated themselves to fishing but today, thanks to the beauty of the village and its environs, their main industry is tourism. Its streets are decorated in a traditional Andalusian way, with geraniums and bougainvillea hanging from balconies and terraces and it is dotted with delightfully quaint shops that give this former fishing village a modern Bohemian air.
Agua Amarga, the jewel of the Mediterranean
Since the beach takes up most of the village, it doesn’t take long to get from the centre to the shore. The beach itself is wide with fine golden sand and it is ideal for people with reduced mobility because it offers all of the amenities, especially bars and restaurants, that you would expect from a larger beach town.
On the western side of Cuartel hill you will find the caves of Agua Amarga, which were excavated with a mix of human effort and natural erosion. Locals say that the workers on the rail network and in the iron industry lived in these caves in the 19th and 20th centuries and, later, they were occupied by ‘hippies’ who made the area their home for many years. These are not the only caves in the area, however; Cabo de Gata has countless amounts along its coast. These have appeared thanks to the morphology of the terrain and, legend has it, that they were popular haunts of the many pirates who made the coast their pillaging ground.
Agua Amarga, hills and white houses
Agua Amarga is surrounded by small hills, dotted with pristine white houses that glisten in the sun. For the best view of the area, head to Mesa Roldán, a dormant volcano with a lighthouse on top. From here you can fully appreciate the beauty of the village, the beach and the coves that give the coastline its shape.
If you’re looking for a peaceful getaway, there is no better place than Enmedio cove. Although there are many coves around, this coastal oasis is the closest to Agua Amarga and you can only get there by foot on a path that is flanked by white limestone cliffs. The journey takes the average person around 30 minutes but, being in the heart of the Natural Park, it is well worth the effort. 150 metres of fine, golden sand await the traveller in search of a relaxing haven far from the hustle and bustle of the outside world. From the beach you can also look back and get a wonderful view of the village and the other side of the bay, enveloping you in beautiful scenery.
Either side of Enmedio cove there are fossilized dunes with rock pools in them, which offer visitors of all ages plenty of enjoyment. For the most part of the year the cove is practically void of all visitors, though, and even in August it is considerably quieter than other beaches in the area. For this reason it has become the go-to beach for many members of European royalty who want to get away from the cameras.
Playa de los Muertos, an untouched beach
If you follow the coast of the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park you will come across a number of other beautiful little enclaves. For instance, one of the beaches of Almería (link: The best beaches in Almería) that is well worth a visit is ‘Playa de los Muertos’, in the municipality of Carboneras, which is also quite close to Agua Amarga. This beach is perfectly straight for around a kilometre and has the clearest waters you will find in the entire region. For this reason, it is considered one of the best beaches in Spain. Despite its renown, Playa de los Muertos remains relatively untouched by tourism, as do many other beaches in Cabo de Gata, and that means scuba diving (link: Diving in Almería) here gives you the chance to see an array of fascinating marine life. As was the case in Agua Amarga, you have to walk to this beach but there are two paths you can take; one that is longer and better suited to taking in the scenery as you walk, and another that takes you straight there by way of a slightly steeper incline.
Restaurants in Agua Amarga
After a beautiful day on Agua Amarga beach you’re sure to be wondering where to go to eat and gather your strength for the next day. Thankfully, there are plenty of places in and around Agua Amarga that offer the very best of the region’s culinary delights, especially fresh fish. The Costamarga beach bar and Los Tarahis restaurant are both excellent places to get a bite to eat and the latter’s speciality of black rice with lobster is not to be missed. There are also simpler bars that will still surprise you with the quality of food they have on offer. One such place in Agua Amarga is La Plaza bar, which is a great place to get fresh tomatoes with fresh, locally caught melva. If you’re more of a meat-lover then Agua Amarga has a number of grills, such as the Asador la Chumbera, which serves its grilled meat with locally-grown accompaniments.
So, let your doubts float away and book a few days in Agua Amarga to get away from it all, you won’t be disappointed!
