Half-an-hour’s drive from Bilbao lies Bermeo, one of the biggest and most densely populated towns in the Busturialdea region. Located in the foothills of Mount Sollube, close to the Matxitxako cape, the town is one of the Biscayan coast’s major fishing ports, thanks in part to the historic power of the canning industry.
Bermeo forms part of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve. Its coastline, characterised by cliffs, is home to one of the area’s most visited sites: San Juan De Gaztelugatxe, a beautiful hermitage perched on the highest point of an islet connected to the coast by a bridge anchored in the rocks.
The History of Bermeo
Bermeo was granted the title of ‘villa’ [burg] in 1236 by Don López Díaz II de Haro, Lord of Biscay. Until 1602, the town held the title of ‘Cabeza de Vizcaya’ [capital of Biscay].
During the sixteenth century, it already boasted one of the finest fishing fleets; in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries whales had been hunted off the coast of Bermeo — and in the seventeenth century the development of fishing, along with the building of quays, streets, buildings, and so on, led to a significant expansion of the town and an increase in the population. During the twentieth century, the fishing activity embraced technological advances and became industrialised.
What to see in Bermeo
Puerto Viejo [Old Port]
Bermeo’s port, surrounded by traditional fishermen’s houses, is one of the focal points of this Basque town. The town centre spreads out from here. It was during the Middle Ages, from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries onwards, that Bermeo began to specialise in fishing. Nowadays there is still intense fishing activity.
If you have the time, it is a truly authentic experience to attend a fish auction, which takes place early in the day when the boats dock after fishing out at sea. Another possibility, apart from admiring the views of this remarkable port, is to visit the Fisherman’s Museum, which is housed in the Ercilla Tower. Here, visitors can learn the history of Bermeo and the town’s relationship with the sea.
Plaza Sabino Arana
Sabino Arana square is the nerve centre of Bermeo and one of the most emblematic spots in this Biscayan town. Here you can see the most venerable and historically significant monuments: the Neoclassical church of Santa María and the Town Hall — also built in a Neoclassical style — which dates from 1733, and has been declared a Monument of Historical and Artistic Significance. Opposite the Casa Consistorial (old Town Hall) stands an old pavilion with an octagonal floor plan.
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
Less than 10 kilometres from Bermeo, you will find San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, one of the Basque Country’s most visited tourist spots. On an islet surrounded by the waters of the Cantabrian Sea, and connected to the land by a bridge anchored in the rocks, stands a tenth-century hermitage dedicated to St. John the Baptist. Inside, the church is full of frescoes and gifts from sailors who survived shipwrecks.
This idyllic spot has also featured in a film. It appears in the Game of Thrones series as Dragonstone, one of the most recognisable settings from the popular HBO series.
Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve
The Reserve lies six kilometres from Bermeo Urdaibai, declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1984.. This natural space has remarkable wetlands teeming with life: the osprey, the common spoonbill, and the bittern are just a few of the bird species you may spot — and the beaches, such as Laida and Laga, are some of the most outstanding in the Basque Country.
Urdaibai also offers breathtaking views from any of its natural viewing points, such as the one at Peñón de Ogoño, or from the hermitages of San Pedro e Atxarre in Ibarrangelu, and San Miguel de Ereñozar in Ereño.
How to get to Bermeo
You can travel from Bilbao to Bermeo by public transport — bus or train. If you are travelling in your own car, you can enjoy greater flexibility in visiting various sites around the Urdaibai reserve, and if you enjoy driving, there are mountain roads and coastal roads from which you can enjoy the beauty of the Biscayan coastline.
Where to eat in Bermeo
When it comes to food, Bermeo offers something for all tastes and budgets. You could try some of the finest Basque dishes (such as marmitako which is a stew made with long-finned tuna, potatoes, tomatoes, onion and peppers), as well as seafood broths and stews, or a grilled tuna belly steak with tasty anchovies.
At no 27, Aurrekoetxea (ground floor) Bermeoko Kafe Antzokia in the town centre, you can try a good marmitako or a tuna stew if you select the fixed-price menu which also includes other traditional dishes. For meat dishes and good value for money, another option is Asador Almiketxu (no 8, Barrio Almike), on the outskirts of the town.
