Riaño lives between the water and the surface, between the past and the present. Half of the older part, together with seven other complete villages, lies submerged beneath the waters of the reservoir which opened in 1987, forcing the new Riaño to look upwards and relocate in the Valcayo valley. What was formerly known as Little Switzerland, because of its mountains and its hunting and fishing grounds, has been transformed into a tourist area for those seeking to enjoy scenery, nature trails and good food within the Picos de Europa Regional Park.
- The history of Riaño
- The Riaño reservoir
- El Paseo del Recuerdo
- The most beautiful bench in León
- Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Rosario
- The viewing points
- The Hermitage of Quintanilla
- Spain’s biggest swing
- Where to eat in Riaño
- What to see in the surrounding area
- Where to stay in the province of León
The history of Riaño
There are very old accounts of a settlement between the river valleys of the Elsa and Yuso. The natural landscape in this area was ideal for grazing, and Riaño became a magnet for the rest of the comarca. However, the construction of the reservoir in 1987 changed everything. The residents were forced to leave their homes and relocate to the valley, which became known as Nuevo Riaño [New Riaño], moving, stone by stone, the most distinctive buildings from the nine affected villages.
The building of the reservoir caused a great public outcry, but the government had the final say.
The Riaño reservoir
The Riaño reservoir is the largest to have been built in the valley of the river Duero. The reservoir has a perimeter of 100 kilometres. Its construction involved the flooding of 9 villages and the removal of the inhabitants to Nuevo Riaño. Building began on 31 December 1987, the very last day that projects of this type were permitted by the European Union.
Now the reservoir has turned into a tourist attraction and a place for water sports. You can go for a boat trip lasting over an hour to marvel at the sight of these incredible mountains from the water.
El Paseo del Recuerdo
The Paseo del Recuerdo [Memory Trail] is a walk of almost a kilometre which tries to retain the memory of the nine villages affected by the construction of the reservoir. Every 100 metres, an information panel describes the features and customs of each of the villages. The best thing about the walk is the view — of both the reservoir and of the mountains that surround it. At the end, you can get a good panorama of Riaño from the jetty.
The most beautiful bench in León
On the outskirts, near the hermitage (the Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Rosario) at the end of the Paseo de Recuerdo, is what is officially known as the “most beautiful bench in León”. The views from this point are remarkable, as you have the immense scale of the Riaño reservoir and at the same time the greenness of the Gilbo, Yordas and Las Pintas peaks.
The bench was erected as part of a tourism initiative to showcase the area’s natural scenery.
Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Rosario
This thirteenth-century church was one of the monuments transferred stone by stone from its original site, the village of La Puerta, to Riaño. It is an example of the Leonese Romanesque architectural style and was saved from destruction by the discovery of Gothic-style medieval paintings that had been covered by the lime on the walls. The images include one of San Antón, and other examples of Gothic and Renaissance frescoes.
Next to this hermitage is one of two Asturleonese raised granaries that were saved from the reservoir. It is estimated that there were once over 80 such storehouses in these valleys.
The viewing points
The area is full of miradores (viewing points) that afford breathtaking views over the reservoirs and the Picos de Europa. The most popular viewing points are Piedrashitas, Alto Valcayo, Las Hazas, and the Collado de Llesba.
The best part of the day, without a doubt, is as evening falls when the light from the setting sun colours the whole landscape in shades of ochre. Almost all the viewing points are well signposted — look for ‘mirador’.
The Hermitage of Quintanilla
This seventeenth-century hermitage houses the Virgen de la Quintanilla, a beautiful twelfth-century carving. This Virgin is Riaño’s patron saint, and every August a great pilgrimage takes place nearby, and the village celebrates her feast day. The hermitage is on the opposite bank of the reservoir, and so there was no need to move it to another location to keep it safe from the waters (although it was moved a few metres higher up). According to legend, the Virgin appeared to a shepherd here, and asked him to build a hermitage to her on this astoundingly beautiful spot. In return, the Virgin promised to intercede for the people of Riaño, and to protect them.
Spain’s biggest swing
In April 2021, Riaño’s Town Council opened another tourist attraction aimed at promoting interest in its magnificent scenery: Spain’s biggest swing. Located at the Mirador de las Hazas viewing point, it affords views of the Parque de los Picos de Europa and the reservoir. It is over 8 metres high, and located at an altitude of over 1,200 metres. Photos taken from here are exceptional.
Where to eat in Riaño
Some of Riaño’s restaurants offer spectacular views of the reservoir, an important plus in their favour. The town in general is famous for its fine gastronomic tradition, and particularly for its meat, its jerky and the renowned Leonese stew. Good places to stop off for a meal include El Mesón and la Parrilla del Molino.
What to see in the surrounding area
Not far from Riaño is Lois and its famous church, known as the Cathedral of the Mountain. Lois is only a small village that lies in the valley of the river Dueñas, but the fact that it was home to three bishops resulted in the construction of this huge, opulent church.
But if you prefer to enjoy more natural scenery, the Valle de Sajambre (in the part of the Picos de Europa that lies within León) offers hiking trails with superb views. The same is true of the Valle de Valdeón, where you can follow the well-known Cares trail.
Where to stay in the province of León
If you’d like to stay in Riaño, there are several hotels and hostales [small, more basic establishments] where you can spend the night; if however you would prefer to return to León, the best plan is to stay in the heart of the city. The four-star Barceló León Conde Luna is in the centre of the city, a mere five-minute walk from the Cathedral, and may well be the best choice if you want to continue discovering León. The hotel offers a superb breakfast, and has two of the city’s finest restaurants: the Nimú Azotea on the tenth floor, and Casa Mando.
Another highly recommended option is the Occidental León Alfonso V, another four-star hotel, also located in the city centre. The outstanding feature of this attractive building is its impressive internal cupola, which reaches from the reception area as far as the eighth floor. The hotel has 62 very comfortable, fully-equipped rooms, complemented by an excellent breakfast.
