Ourense cathedral, dedicated to St Martin of Tours, is a powerful magnet that attracts everyone visiting this beautiful Galician city. It seduces visitors for various reasons, including its history, its architectural styles, its beautiful interior and because it retains that air of an old lady who has lived through it all. Its location in the centre of the old town makes it a must-see, and its large size means that it never goes unnoticed.
A must when in Ourense is visiting the historical quarter, which encapsulates the trajectory of this city founded in Roman times, whose hot springs are still one of its main attractions. From the cathedral the streets of the old town unfurl, leading you to other landmarks, such as Plaza Mayor, Santa María Nai church (Santa María Madre), and Plaza del Trigo and Plaza del Hierro. Strolling along these streets, which open onto beautiful squares, is one of the most satisfying things you can do in Ourense, a city that seems to have been made for wandering around at a leisurely pace, just listening to the faint murmur of its fountains, whether they are thermal or not.
- History of Ourense’s San Martiño cathedral
- Ourense cathedral: inside
- Pórtico del Paraíso
- Outside of Ourense cathedral
- Ourense cathedral: unusual facts
- Where to sleep in Ourense
History of Ourense’s San Martiño cathedral
There are several theories about the founding of Ourense’s cathedral around the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Some historians claim that it was built on the site of an ancient basilica during the Swabian period, although others maintain the basilica was actually located in Santa María Madre church. The period in which it was built is also important because the Muslim invasion left the coffers and the population depleted… Even so, the cathedral has an imposing appearance, despite the fact that its main style is Romanesque with certain Cistercian influences. Throughout the centuries the building has been added to according to the new times. In the fifteenth century, for example, its dome was erected in a pronounced flamboyant Gothic style. The cathedral is, without a doubt, one of the must-see places in Ourense.
Ourense cathedral: inside
You cannot pass by the front of Ourense cathedral without crossing its threshold and going inside. The cathedral has a Latin cross floor plan and all that remains of the old triple apse is just the central section, which is joined to the three naves with cruciform pillars, ribbed vaults and double arches.
One of the most unusual parts of the cathedral is the Main Chapel, which has an ornate altarpiece by the master Cornielles. It was made in the sixteenth century and paid for by Bishop Orlando Carretto della Rovere. The altarpiece’s design is based on a large open prayer book, which encourages recollection and piety. One can spend hours observing every detail of its vestments. The ancient choir stalls at the foot of the altar are also worth taking a closer look at due to their delicate carving.
The sheer amount of ornamentation in the Baroque Santo Cristo chapel makes it another must-see section of the cathedral. Its heritage, the result of donations, is opulent and extensive. Do not miss the baldachin, the Renaissance grille and the eighteenth-century paintings.
Pórtico del Paraíso
The Pórtico del Paraíso is situated on the western façade of the cathedral, just like in churches on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. Just seeing it is worth the visit to Ourense alone, with its cheerful polychromy, which amazing viewers at first glance. As you get closer you will surely be reminded of the Pórtico de la Gloria of Santiago de Compostela cathedral. Although Ourense’s is from a later date, it is also magnificent. Not all of the portico dates from the thirteenth century, since it was renovated in the sixteenth century, when an image of St Martin and a stellar vault were installed.
The sculptures of the prophets that look like columns and carry signs with their names, or the apostles with their books, are very unusual. On the central arch you can see the 24 elders of the Apocalypse. Each detail on the Pórtico del Paraíso has its own story, so we recommend taking a guided tour so as not miss anything.
Outside of Ourense cathedral
Although the interior of Ourense cathedral and the Pórtico del Paraíso are a delight to behold, be sure to leave some time to admire the outside. The south-facing façade, which can be seen from Plaza del Trigo, has battlements resembling those of a castle (the church’s power was comparable to civil power). If you would like to see the north-facing façade, you must head to Calle Lepanto, where, if you look up, you will see the sixteenth-century dome of the cathedral. The west façade can be seen from Plaza de San Martiño, with its 40-meter-tall bell tower. You can go up the tower via the same entrance to the cathedral, so don’t miss the magnificent views from the top. Finally, it is worth mentioning again that the chevet that had three apses now only has one.
Ourense cathedral: unusual facts
Ourense cathedral is associated with several unusual stories, one of which is particularly interesting, suggesting that the Holy Christ grows hair and that a barber must go to cut it every week. Legend has it that this image was found by some sailors in Fisterra in the fourteenth century, with natural hair and a beard.
Where to sleep in Ourense
Just ten minutes walking from San Martiño cathedral is the Barceló Ourense, a comfortable and modern hotel from which you can admire the historical beauty of the city. Its cutting-edge interior is the perfect place to relax from the hustle and bustle of the city and recharge your batteries so you can continue discovering its attractions. Its rooms are based on the B-Room concept and feature a pillow menu, extremely comfortable mattresses, rain showers and coffee and tea kits. Also worth a mention are its buffet-style B-Likeat breakfasts and the snacks served in its lobby-bar.
The hotel’s facilities are rounded off by five meeting rooms (perfect for business travellers) and a gym and sauna so you have everything you need on your stay.
