One of the first places that you visit when you go to a new city is its main square or its most famous historical site. We know that these places reflect the history and lives of the local people throughout time, and we are rarely wrong. Ourense’s Plaza Mayor has always been the heart of the old town of this Galician city, the place where the people of Ourense gathered to celebrate, to trade or to simply be seen. The square is more peculiar than you may think, however, since it is unusual for such an important public space to be located on an ‘uncomfortable’ inclination that forces the surrounding buildings to adapt to it. Walking, however, is not so uncomfortable… once you get the hang of it.
At first glance, the surrounding buildings, built in different styles, and the arcades on three of its four sides, are particularly striking. These three sides were once part of El Espolón, the promenade along which nobles walked and showed off to their peers. But we will talk further about this in the following sections, because the main squares of cities hold dozens of stories, as long as you pay close attention.
- History of Plaza Mayor
- Iconic buildings and places
- Where to eat close to Plaza Mayor
- Where to sleep in Ourense
History of Plaza Mayor
Formerly known as the Plaza del Campo, the walls of Ourense’s main square hold a long history. The earliest information about the square dates back to the fifteenth century, with the square having always played an important role in the life of the city. Its slight inclination owes to its location on a terrace of the river once called the Barbaña. Particularly notable over time is its nature as a point of trade, hosting markets; its municipal power, home to official buildings; and its proximity to the cathedral, from whose towers you can look out onto the square. Even justice was given out by hand, since the pillory, where convicts were executed, used to be situated at the end of Calle Pelouriño (now Colón).
Iconic buildings and places
Plaza Mayor is lined with buildings as iconic as the Town Hall. Situated on the side that does not have any arcades, its classicist-style façade was designed by Queralt. The main façade has a clock and bears the coat of arms of the Catholic Monarchs. Inside it is well worth visiting the Noble Hall of Sessions, with its interesting reliefs, which can be reached via a monumental staircase. Next to the building is the Old Episcopal Palace (12th century), built in Romanesque style and declared a Historical and Artistic Monument. These days it houses the Provincial Archaeological Museum.
The three sides with arcades on Plaza Mayor, where nobles used to stroll, are today a place where locals and visitors alike enjoy themselves on the terraces of numerous bars and restaurants overlooking the square. The buildings that line the old promenade, from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, boast beautiful façades that are packed with detail. Among them is the house of Fermín García, designed by Vázquez Gulías, which has been converted into an exhibition space and is one of the most important examples of modernist architecture in the city.
Where to eat close to Plaza Mayor
Ourense’s main square is lined with numerous bars, restaurants and terraces, which means it won’t be hard to find one that satisfies your tastes and interests. On the square you will find Tamarindo, which defines itself as a ‘courtyard bar and eatery’, an establishment with a menu based on local produce that also includes flavours from around the world. Its a great place to have breakfast, lunch or some tapas, or just to have a drink. Very close to Plaza Mayor, on Plazuela de la Magdalena is Tapanegra Gastrobar, an establishment serving great food, including tapas and larger portions. Another perfect place to recharge your batteries is the restaurant Ataraxia, where you can enjoy dishes made for sharing at decent prices. Try the grilled baby squid, the Galician beef tacos and the ‘abuela Raquel’ style tripe. And if you want a lunchtime set menu, they’ve got that too.
Where to sleep in Ourense
One of the most highly-recommended hotels to enjoy a break in the Galician provincial capital is the Barceló Ourense, a four-star establishment close to San Lázaro park, right in the heart of the city. Its cutting-edge style and the quality of its facilities make it a perfect choice for exploring Ourense’s old town on foot. If you have already fallen in love with the communal spaces, wait until you see its ultra comfortable B-rooms, which features pillow menus, rain showers, coffee and tea kits and incredible mattresses. The breakfasts are also very memorable and snacks are offered in the lobby-bar. And if you like to take care of yourself while on holiday, don’t forget that the hotel also has a gym and sauna.
