Before it meets the river Miño in the town of Os Peares, the river Sil forms a deep and spectacular canyon along its course that serves as the boundary between the provinces of Lugo and Ourense. A natural and heritage legacy has developed around it for centuries, which has now been elevated to a tourist destination.
The presence of more than 40 monasteries in the area has earned it the name of Ribeira Sacra (Sacred Shore). In addition, the canyon’s impressive ecosystem and the wine culture created on the canyon’s slopes have made the Sil Canyon the main destination in the province of Ourense and inland Galicia.
Things to see along the Sil Canyon
There are many attractions along the Sil Canyon. They go from ancient monasteries to wineries. Touring the canyons, either by car thanks to the viewpoints located at the top, or by boat on the river itself, is undoubtedly the fundamental activity that should be the focus of your trip.
Forming the natural boundary of the provinces of Lugo and Ourense, the canyon is formed in about 35 kilometres of river, with some points reaching 500 metres in height. The many viewpoints on both sides allow us to explore truly breathtaking views.
In addition, in the surroundings of the river Sil you will find a multitude of hiking routes, several interesting towns and interesting wineries that make up the Ribeira Sacra Designation of Origin, one of the few European wine regions considered to have heroic viticulture, the result of the steep slopes of the vineyards.
Historical heritage, nature, wines and a unique landscape.
Santo Estevo Parador
Undoubtedly, one of the main heritage elements of the Ribeira Sacra and the Sil Canyon is the Monastery of Saint Steven of Ribas de Sil, today converted into a parador hotel. This is the main monastery in the area, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, although it is thought that it may have been founded in the 6th century.
The importance of Saint Steven’s monastery was such that nine bishops retired there in the 10th and 11th centuries. The size of the monastery, with its three cloisters and the Romanesque church, is proof of this today.
The monastery part is now one of the main parador hotels in Spain, although non-residents are allowed to visit its main areas of interest.
Santo Estevo jetty and catamaran along the Sil Canyon
We said that the Sil Canyon has to be seen both from above, by road, and from below, sailing along the river in a catamaran. Without those two perspectives, the journey will be incomplete. There are different catamaran routes along the canyon, both from the Lugo and Ourense sides.
One of the most popular catamarans is the one you can take from the Santo Estevo jetty near the monastery. The trip covers some 24 kilometres of the main part of the canyon and gives a good understanding of the dimensions of the site and its relationship with viticulture. An example of this is the Cividade viewpoint, where there are vineyards on slopes steeper than 80%.
You can also take catamarans from the Abeleda jetty, at the other end of the canyon, or from the Lugo side, at the Os Chancís jetty.
Sil Canyon viewpoints
With the river perspective solved, you can now see the river from above thanks to the complete network of viewpoints along the Sil Canyon. You will find them on both banks and most of them are very well signposted.
On the Ourense side, you will find them along the OU-0508 road. The main viewpoints over the Sil Canyon are:
- Balcones de Madrid
- Cabezoás
- Pena da Cividá
- A Columna
- Vilouxe
- Pé do Home
- Presa de Santo Estevo
In Ourense, the most spectacular are those of A Columna and Vilouxe, as they are in the iconic meander formed by the river.
On the Lugo side, the best viewpoints are:
- Cividade
- O Boqueiriño
- Santiorxo
- Cadeiras
Some of the viewpoints are on the road itself and have viewing platforms that are easy for anyone to access. However, others require walking a few metres along paths, something to be taken into account if there is an elderly person or someone with mobility problems.
Balcones de Madrid viewpoint
Undoubtedly, one of the main viewpoints over the river Sil are those known as Balcones de Madrid, at an altitude of 500 metres. To get there, turn off the OU-0605 road at Parada de Sil and take a small track that leads to the Os Torgás recreational area, where you can park and walk a few metres to the viewpoint.
It is obvious that Madrid cannot be seen from the viewpoint. The name of the capital of Spain comes from the fact that this was the place where women used to say goodbye to their emigrant husbands, many of whom were wafer sellers who went to work at the fairs and festivals. In fact, in Parada de Sil there is a monument to wafer sellers. The men would go down to the river to take a boat to the nearby San Esteban station, where they would catch the train to Madrid.
Parada de Sil
Parada de Sil is one of the main municipalities in the Ribeira Sacra on the Ourense side and concentrates the main points of interest of the Sil Canyon. In the small town centre you will also find several interesting restaurants for lunch or dinner during your stay.
Along with the viewpoints, the main attractions in Parada de Sil are Saint Christina’s Monastery, the Ronsel do Sil winery (located at the foot of the river), the liqueur factory, the thousand-year-old chestnut tree in Entrambosrríos, the footbridges of the river Mao and the surprising necropolis of San Víctor, with anthropomorphic tombs carved into the stone.
Saint Christina’s Monastery
In Parada de Sil you cannot miss the Monastery of Saint Christina of Ribas de Sil, from the 10th century, another of the Romanesque jewels of the area that will help you to understand the hermit nature of the monks who populated the Ribeira Sacra more than 1,000 years ago.
This tiny monastery, now disused, is a must when visiting this area. You should walk around its interior and exterior, admiring its curious capitals and the beautiful forest that surrounds it. To visit it, check the opening hours inside the temple beforehand.
Castro Caldelas
Castro Caldelas is the main town along the Sil Canyon. It is located at the eastern end of the canyon, some 10 kilometres from the Abeleda jetty. Castro Caldelas has been declared a historic-artistic site since 1998, thanks to the Castle of the Counts of Lemos that crowns the town and its adjacent streets with houses full of coats of arms and galleries that are living proof of its medieval splendour.
Castro Caldelas has a rich past. Foro do Burgo de Castro Caldelas (1228) is the oldest surviving document in Galician, in which Alfonso IX granted the town a charter. Centuries later, the castle played an important role in the Irmandiña Revolt, one of the main revolts in 15th century Europe.
In Castro Caldelas you can also taste products such as Caldelá beef, cured chestnut-fed ham and bica sponge cake.
Sil Canyon swing
If you love Instagram-worthy photos, do not miss your date with the swing that a local winegrower installed in his winery. The swing’s position makes the occupant appear to be flying with the canyon on his back.
From being a swing intended for personal use, social media drove the demand for visitors asking to come in for a photo. As it is located among vineyards, he decided to protect them by creating an entrance fee that includes a visit to the winery, a bottle of wine and the use and enjoyment of the swing.
The swing is located in the Terra Brava winery, in the municipality of Sober, on the Lugo side of the canyon.
Canyon routes
Hiking along the Sil Canyon is another essential activity to complete a trip to this part of inland Galicia. The place lends itself to this and there are many possible routes to consider for putting on your hiking boots. Some of the most popular are:
● River Mao walkways
● Climb to the necropolis of San Víctor
● PR-G 98: Sil Canyon – Saint Christina: a 17-km circular route to Saint Christina’s monastery
Where to stay near Sil Canyon
Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on how you look at it, the Sil Canyon is not an extremely touristy place, so the possibilities for accommodation in the area are limited. In addition to the Santo Estevo Parador, you will find rural accommodation, boarding houses and small guesthouses.
Another option is to stay in the nearby city of Ourense, where you will find the Barceló Ourense, a four-star hotel located in the city centre. The hotel is characterised by its spacious rooms and an excellent location in the heart of San Lázaro Park and at the beginning of the Rúa do Paseo, one of the main arteries of the historic centre of the thermal city.
