What to see in Pamplona in 3 days
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Hemingway’s novel, Fiesta: The Sun Also Rises, has made Pamplona a unique international destination on account of its bull runs and festivities, but the capital of Navarre is a unique place, full of wonderful parks (even one designed in the Japanese style), and places steeped in history, such the city walls, the Citadel and the cathedral.
Itinerary day 1
4.00 p.m. - 6.00 p.m.
The San Fermín run
It’s now time to retrace the route of Pamploma’s most famous festival which draws thousands and thousands of residents, tourists and enthusiasts every July. The best place to start is where the youths pray for the protection of San Fermín in front of the image of the saint, next to the Santo Domingo enclosures. From here, the route continues up the Cuesta de Santo Domingo, past the Telefónica, through the Plaza del Ayuntamiento [Town Hall Square], via Mercaderes and the famous Calle Estafeta, to finish at the bullring. In between, it’s advisable to have a rest and visit Santo Domingo market, the city’s oldest market, to check out one of Navarre’s other great passions, food and cooking. The most interesting stalls are those selling a huge variety of fish and meat, all very fresh. This was also one of the places which Hemingway used to frequent in order to escape from the summer heat.
10.00 a.m. - 12.00 noon
The city walls
The five kilometres of walls still preserved are, together with the Citadel, one of the most important examples of Renaissance European military architecture. The walls were built on the orders of Felipe II, who had become weary of being attacked by the French. On a stroll around the walls, we can find several bastions, including the Redín, and those of Our Lady of Guadalupe and of the Virgin of the Pillar. The Bastion of San Juan, one of the biggest, is close to the Ciudadela, or Citadel, which we will visit later. On this visit, we can cross the Portal de Francia, otherwise known as the Portal de Zumalacárregui, one of the surviving gateways into the city. It was through this entrance, historically the gateway to the city used by French pilgrims, that the Carlist General Zumalacárregui, or Tío Tomás [Uncle Tom] as he was known, would use to depart for war.
12.00 noon - 2.00 p.m.
Museo de Navarra
Located in the historic building of the former Hospital de Nuestra Señora de la Misericordia, this is the perfect place to learn about the history of one of Spain’s oldest regions. The museum houses pieces from its Roman past, as well as Arab exhibits and a Goya portrait. Inside the building, you can visit an almost completely hidden church.
2.00 p.m. - 3.30 p.m.
Asador Zaldiko
This is a cider house very close to the museum, and on the way to the Cuesta de Santo Domingo. Here, they serve large plates of fish, in particular all the typical varieties from the Cantabrian Sea, and also mouthwatering red meats.
6.30 p.m. - 8.00 p.m.
The Citadel
This is a defensive structure, which is almost unique in Europe because of its well-preserved condition. Like the city walls, it was built on the orders of Felipe II in a pentagonal shape with five defensive points. Only three of these remain standing, as two were demolished when the city expanded towards the new area, known as the Ensanches. This 300,000 m2 area of walls, defences and green spaces has become a popular place to stroll and take part in sports with residents and visitors alike. Also still standing are some of the military buildings that were, until not so long ago, used for storage, including the Polvorín [tinder box], the Pabellón de Mixtos and the Sala de Armas [armoury], bulwarks, moats and defensive walls that guard unique corners of the complex. Cultural activities are held in most of the buildings, which are very interesting, if only because of the sense of history that pervades the place. Close by is the Baluarte de San Juan, one of the better preserved bastions which is well worth a visit.
9.00 p.m. - 11.00 p.m.
Casa Manolo
This is a restaurant that for decades has been serving good food to the residents of Pamplona from Calle García Castañón, in the centre of the city. The atmosphere is very informal, and it’s almost like being in your own home. The meat dishes are mouthwatering, and the starters are very traditional.
Itinerary day 2
10.00 a.m. - 12.30 p.m.
Cathedral of Santa María la Real
This is one of Spain’s largest cathedral complexes, which has been extended several times. Its origins go back to a Romanesque church, but what we actually see in the present day is a church with a Gothic interior and a Neoclassic entrance by the famous artist Ventura Rodríguez. Make sure you don’t miss the fifteenth-century cloister, considered one of the most attractive in Spain, and the María Bell, the second largest in the country, which is still operational, and which can be heard all across Pamplona. Inside the cathedral, it is worth paying special attention to the figure of Santa María la Real, the oldest preserved carving in Navarre, which is coated with silver, and the tombs of Charles III The Noble and his wife.
1.00 p.m. - 2.00 p.m.
Plaza del Castillo
This is the heart of Pamplona, and the best place for an aperitif. It is worth visiting the music kiosk in the centre of the square and the stately buildings around. But most of all, visitors must stop off at Café Iruña, a haunt of Hemingway and other intellectuals, and the square’s most traditional establishment.
2.30 p.m. - 4.30 p.m.
Time for pintxos
There are two streets you need to visit if you want to sample Pamplona’s finest pintxos: Espoz y Mina and San Nicolás. On your tour, you won’t want to miss traditional establishments such as Bar Gaucho, the Baserri Berri restaurant, historic Fitero, and Vieja Iruña, to name but a few. Moving from bar to bar is the best way of getting to know this part of Pamploma’s historic centre, while at the same time becoming acquainted with the finest of Navarre’s gastronomy.
5.00 p.m. - 6.00 p.m.
The church of San Lorenzo and the chapel of San Fermín
Walking down Paseo de Pablo Sarasate to Calle de Navas de Tolosa will bring us to Pamplona’s best known church, which owes its fame to what it contains rather than to its architecture. This is the church of San Lorenzo, a heavily restored building containing the eighteenth-century chapel which has housed the carving of Navarre’s most revered saint since 1717. It is not known whether the silver-trimmed sculpture containing the relics of San Fermín was made from dark wood, or whether the wood has been darkened by the effect of the burning candles.
6.30 p.m. - 8.00 p.m.
Taconera Gardens
These are Pamplona’s oldest gardens, designed in the French style in 1830. From its very beginning, the gardens’ huge trees and its paths attracted the city’s residents, who would come to stroll around this beautiful green area, especially in the evening. The most striking feature is the interior bulwark which has become a kind of zoo where you can see ducks, swans, deer, peacocks, pheasants, geese, and fish. Plant species include the giant sequoia, the sophora japonica, magnolias, and the gingko biloba.
9.00 p.m. - 11.00 p.m.
El Búho Restaurante Sky Bar
Situated within the historic centre of Pamplona, the views from its terrace are spectacular, especially at sunset. Located in Calle Descalzos, the restaurant has a relaxed atmosphere and a menu that includes modern dishes alongside traditional fare such as fish stew and pig cheek. It’s also a good place to have a drink or sip a cocktail while enjoying the fabulous Pamplona sky.
Itinerary day 3
8.30 p.m. - 10.30 p.m.
Restaurante 1995
This Italian establishment next to the park is a good choice for a meal to round off the day. Very new, with a functional décor, it offers a varied menu and has a wood-fired oven in which they cook the most delicious pizzas. A good range of pasta dishes is also available.
10.00 a.m. - 1.00 p.m.
The river Arga
This riverside park is Pamplona’s most important green area, covering one million square metres. The best way to explore the park is to hire a bicycle or to choose a hiking route that crosses the city’s historic bridges, such as San Pedro or the Rochapea bridge. The park’s flora includes ash trees, willows, lime trees and blackthorn, and there is a wealth of fauna: squirrels, otters, beavers and dozens of bird species for which the river Arga provides the ideal habitat. In some parts of the park, you can enjoy water sports such as rowing, and this is the perfect spot to view Pamplona’s city walls from the other side of the city.
1.30 p.m. - 3.30 p.m.
Sidrería Auzmendi [cider house]
In a bend of the river Arga can be found one of Pamplona’s most traditional cider houses, the Auzmendi. It is located in Calle Joaquín Beunza Kalea, and among the traditional dishes on offer, you really won’t want to miss its cod tortilla [omelette] or the grilled steaks.
4.00 p.m. - 6.00 p.m.
Avenida Carlos III
This main artery through Pamplona’s second Ensanche [expansion area] has become a popular gathering place with tourists and residents looking to stroll around the city’s best shops and to enjoy a break at one of the modern snack bars. This elegant avenue, which begins at the Plaza Castillo and ends in the Plaza del Conde de Rodenzo, is pedestrianised along its entire length.
6.00 p.m. - 8.00 p.m.
Parque Yamaguchi
This innovative park came into being thanks to a twinning arrangement between Pamplona and the Japanese city of Yamaguchi. In fact, this green area was designed by Japanese architects following the precepts of Japanese gardens and in homage to the four seasons. The park has over 400 trees, a lake with a famous pagoda, Japanese almond trees, and several waterfalls. Within the park itself you will find the Planetarium and the curious Garden of the Galaxy, which recreates the Milky Way with bushes and flowers — and even includes a black hole.