What to see in Pamplona in a weekend
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Last year, 2023, marked a century since the U.S. writer, Ernest Hemingway, discovered Pamplona, its monuments and its traditions. The association with the capital of Navarre remains so strong that it is possible to imagine the writer of “For Whom the Bell Tolls” and “Fiesta: The Sun Also Rises” strolling quietly along the streets of the city’s historic quarter, stroking his beard, before stopping off at Café Iruña for a coffee.
Nevertheless, there’s much more to Pamplona than Hemingway, although retracing his steps is a good excuse for visiting unique spots and understanding his love for them.
Itinerary day 1
6.00 p.m. - 8.00 p.m.
A tour of the bull runs
If one thing was sure to send Hemingway into a fit of excitement, it was the San Fermín bull running. The U.S. author had arrived in Pamplona looking for new material for his documentary reports, and this led him to write an entire book, “Fiesta: The Sun Also Rises”. We can start our tour at the Santo Domingo bull pens, where there is an image of San Fermín, the saint whose protection is sought by the young men and women who leap into the path of the bulls every morning in the month of July. You only need to walk up Santo Domingo hill to reach the Telefónica, then on to Mercaderes, the famous Calle Estafeta, and finally the bullring where there is a statue in memory to one of the festival’s best-known followers.
8.30 p.m. - 10.30 p.m.
Time for pintxos — the Basque version of Spanish tapas
The best way to discover the gastronomy of Pamplona is to visit the bars and taverns where Hemingway could be seen laughing and drinking. One of the best is Bar Gaucho, which is recommended by the Michelin Guide. It is located in Calle Espoz y Mina, one of the streets most packed with bars and people (another is Calle de San Nicolas). We could start here and drop into bars and taverns such as Baserriberri, Iruñazarra and La Mandarra de la Ramos to mention just a few. Generally, we would recommend you order the house pintxo.
Itinerary day 2
10.00 a.m. - 12.45 p.m.
Cathedral of Santa María la Real
This is one of Spain’s largest cathedral complexes. It was constructed on the site of an ancient Romanesque church, and has a Gothic interior. As soon as we arrive, we will be met by the sight of a Neo-classical façade designed by the renowned artist Ventura Rodríguez, which Hemingway considered “ugly”. The cloister is considered to be one of the most beautiful in Europe, and the twelfth-century figure of Santa María is one of the most famous images of St. Mary in the whole of Navarre. In the cathedral, along with many other works of art and chapels, we can see two highly unusual royal tombs — those of Charles III ‘the Noble’ and that of his wife, Leonor. We should not leave without standing face-to-face with Spain’s second-largest bell, and the only one of this size still working, the María Bell. Its sound can be heard 14 kilometres away.
1.00 p.m. - 2.00 p.m.
Santo Domingo Market
On the way to Santo Domingo Market, the city’s oldest market, we can also see the Fuente de la Navarrería, a very popular fountain built during the eighteenth century, originally sited a few metres ahead of its current position. Santo Domingo Market is a key place if you want to understand Pamplona’s residents’ love of cooking and food.
2.30 p.m. - 4.30 p.m.
La Vieja Iruña restaurant
Walking down towards Plaza del Castillo and crossing the square will bring us into Calle de San Nicolás: here we will find this restaurant which serves the most classical dishes with a modern twist evident in the details. They have two menus: the weekday menu and the tasting menu, if you want to try the best dishes. At La Vieja Iruña, they know that without the cooking undertaken by their grandmothers, nouvelle cuisine would not exist, and they put this belief into practice.
5.00 p.m. - 6.00 p.m.
The Church of San Lorenzo
Walking back down the same street, we will arrive at a grand avenue in which stands the Church of San Lorenzo, one of the capital city’s most popular churches because it houses the figure of San Fermín. The church, which has been the subject of significant reconstruction, has scant allure — unlike the chapel which is a beautiful seventeenth-century work that has preserved the purest tradition of Pamplona for centuries. The dark-skinned statue of the saint contains the reliquary of San Fermín, which draws many tourists and devotees. In fact, it is said that Hemingway prayed in front of it, and attained spiritual peace.
6.30 p.m. - 8.30 p.m.
Taconera Gardens
Considered to be Pamplona’s oldest gardens, they were designed in the French Romantic style, and from the outset they were a very popular spot in Navarre’s capital. In the summer, this is a cool place, full of trees that cast a pleasant shade so that you can relax at any time of the day. In fact, as evening falls, it is a popular place to stroll, to take your children, and to enjoy the fresh air.
9.00 p.m. - 11.00 p.m.
El Búho Sky Bar restaurant
If you fancy eating somewhere unique, El Búho Sky Bar qualifies because of its views, as it is located on a rooftop in the city centre. The view of Pamplona from this restaurant is incredible, as is the food. In addition, you could take the opportunity to enjoy a drink or a cocktail with the capital of Navarre spread out at your feet.
Itinerary day 3
12.30 p.m. - 1.00 p.m.
Pastas Beatriz
By now, we may well be hungry, and the plan for the rest of the morning focuses on gastronomy. Our itinerary first takes us, en route to Plaza del Castillo, to Pamplona’s most famous cake shop, Pastas Beatriz (no. 16, Calle Curia). What Hemingway most liked about the city, is that you could eat and drink well, and enjoy superb desserts. Here, they sell the famous garroticos, the assorted puff pastries so well known in Navarre. Be aware that card payments are not accepted, and that the place tends to be very crowded, so you need patience and cash.
10.00 a.m. - 12.00 noon
City walls and bastions
Among Pamplona’s most historic sites are its city walls and bastions. We could start out tour at the Fortín de San Bartolomé, built in a half-moon shape, and housing the interpretation centre of this defensive structure that protected the city centuries ago. On leaving this fort, we can make for the Portal de Francia or Portal de Zumalacárregui, one of the six gateways of the original walled city, and one that remains standing. This was the point of entry to the capital of Navarre for travellers and pilgrims arriving from France. The gateway is also called Zumalacárregui in honour of Tío Tomás [‘Uncle Tom’], the general who marched out of Pamplona to confront the Carlist troops during the nineteenth century. Close by is the part of the walls that we can actually walk along (five kilometres of the walls are currently still standing), and it’s a good place to see how Pamplona’s defensive system worked.
1.00 p.m. - 2.00 p.m.
Plaza del Castillo
Suitably sweetened, we reach Plaza del Castillo, the heart of Pamplona, at the aperitif hour. This is a unique spot to visit and enjoy a quiet drink. Any true citizen of Pamplona comes here to stroll and be seen. Apart from the buildings that stand around it, the square’s main attractions are the music kiosk in its centre, and the hugely famous Café Iruña, which has a statue of Hemingway leaning against the bar, just as he did thousands of times during his travels.
2.00 p.m. - 4.00 p.m.
Ábaco restaurant
Imbued with the spirit of the Plaza del Castillo, we next arrive at Ábaco, an establishment recommended by the Michelin Guide and by many of this city’s residents and visitors. The best thing here are definitely the famous rolls, although we could order plates of meat, fish or vegetables without fear of error. If you’d like to try a variety of what is on offer, it is best to order ‘medias raciones’ [half plates].
4.30 p.m. - 6.30 p.m.
Parque Yamaguchi
This park was created thanks to the twinning of Pamplona with the Japanese city of Yamaguchi. In fact, its paths, its lake with a pagoda and its waterfalls in the typical Japanese style were designed by Japanese artists. Inside the park, you will find Japanese cherry trees and giant sequoias, as well as the Planetarium and the Galaxy Garden, a unique feature that recreates the entire Milky Way with shrubs and flowers.
7.00 p.m. - 8.30 p.m.
The Citadel
Built on the orders of Felipe II to protect the city from continual harassment by the French, this Renaissance military structure is one of the best preserved in the whole of Europe. It is built in the shape of a pentagon, with each of the five points ending in a bastion — although two of the bastions were demolished to make way for the construction of Pamplona’s second Ensanche, or urban expansion area. Covering 280,000 m2, this green, open space is divided between culture and recreation, with events, exhibitions and other activities held in the buildings that remain standing.
9.00 p.m. - 11.00 p.m.
Dinner at the Sidrería Auzmendi Sagardotegia [cider house]
To round off our visit to Pamplona, we could move a short way from the centre to enjoy a very special place, the Sidrería Auzmendi Sagardotegia, located at no. 17 Calle Joaquín Beunza. This is a unique establishment where you can enjoy meat, especially that cooked with Idiazábal cheese, along with a good cider.