The history and origins of Paella, Spain’s national dish

The best place to start your search for the history of paella is in Valencia. Check into one of the city centre hotels and get ready for a rice lesson. Before taste testing the various varieties of paella, it is important to grasp two crucial points. Firstly, paella is a rice-centric dish and the quality is judged primarily on the texture and flavour of the rice used. Second, the Spanish word for rice, arroz, stems from Arabic, the word "paella" in the Valencian dialect translates to "pan," emphasising the pivotal role of the pan itself in crafting this storied meal.

Now a restaurant classic, paella was originally cooked in the 14th and 15th centuries by farm labourers working in the rice fields at lunchtime over a log fire. Using what was at hand, they combined rice with other locally sourced produce such as tomatoes, onions, snails, beans and if they were lucky, rabbit, duck or chicken. A dash of saffron was added for extra flavour giving the rice an appealing golden colour. Farmers would gather around the cooking pot, eating directly from the pan with a wooden spoon. 

Staying true to the origins of paella, a Valencian paella has no seafood but a mixture of chicken and rabbit, chopped into pieces, mixed with lima beans, green broad beans and grated tomato. This Valencian paella recipe remains largely unchanged and where better to try an authentic Valencian paella than in the city itself. Just don’t expect your rice to come loaded with seafood or a mix of seafood and meat - these are modern variations of the original recipe and are not always served in all restaurants. 

To defend the cultural significance and the origins of paella, in 2021, the Valencian government officially granted Paella Valenciana protected status. To be able to obtain this name the plate must adhere to specific standards, allowing only ten traditional ingredients: DOP rice, chicken, rabbit, Ferraura beans (a type of wide green bean), Garrófon beans (large white beans), tomato, olive oil, saffron, salt, and water. For the dish to stay true to its roots, it must follow this strict regulation. 

As Valencian rice became more popular and widely available, new variations of the classic recipe popped up on menus across Spain. Along the Valencian coast and in the Balearic Islands, seafood crept into the recipes, meanwhile, in other parts of Spain such as Murcia, a combination of meat and fish was added creating the paella mixta. By the end of the 18th century, paella had won the hearts of Spaniards from Galicia to the Canary Islands.

In fact, its popularity had even spread across other European countries and in 1896 French filmmaker Eugene Lix filmed the instructions for cooking a Valencian paella. During the 20th century, thanks to Spain’s boom in tourism, restaurants told travellers about the origins of paella, leaving visitors hooked on the dish’s delicious taste. It wasn’t long before variations of classic paella recipes made their way to restaurants in New York, Paris and London.

The international appeal of this classic Spanish dish has strayed far away from the origins of paella. The addition of ingredients such as chorizo is enough to make any Spaniard cringe. Also, while it is common for women to do the majority of the cooking in Spain, paella is traditionally a man’s job, just like the BBQ in the UK and USA. Remember, that in Spain the main meal of the day is at lunchtime, so don’t be surprised if you get odd looks when ordering a paella at dinnertime - in Spain, paella is a lunchtime dish. 

You can’t make paella with any old rice. To do it right, honouring the origins of paella, you must use either Bomba or Calasparra rice. Both of these varieties are native to Spain and grow abundantly in the Albufera Lagoon area of Valencia. The area, just like the rice itself, is protected by the Spanish government to ensure that the highest quality is maintained at all times.

But what makes these rice varieties the best for a paella? When cooking paella, stirring the rice is not an option, as it disrupts the formation of the socarrat—the prized caramelized crust at the bottom of the pan that signifies a well-made paella. To achieve this, it’s crucial to ensure the rice absorbs enough liquid while maintaining its firm texture. This is why Bomba rice is considered to be the best rice for the job.

Another essential element needed to honour the origins of paella is the pan. Known as la paella, the pan appears like a traditional skillet yet it is traditionally crafted from polished steel, with two handles on either side. It comes in a variety of sizes depending on the number of portions required but the depth is always consistently shallow to ensure that the rice gets the maximum exposure to the heat source as possible. This is what helps to create the signature socarrat. The paella pan also has small dimples on the bottom of its surface. This helps to distribute the heat evenly while trapping tiny amounts of liquid to ensure that the rice doesn’t fully dry out. 

Keen to discover the secrets of Valencian food while on holiday? You don’t have to be based in Valencia to enjoy this classic dish. Guests at Barceló Conil Playa can attend a paella cookery class at Arrozante led by famous Spanish chef, Carlos Otaola. You will be guided through the origins of paella, the key ingredients and the varieties of rice dishes on offer at Arrozante. You will be let in on the secrets of this closely guarded recipe and guided step by step to create an authentic Spanish paella. Once cooked, you can then enjoy your creation on the hotel’s terrace accompanied by refreshing wines. Buen provecho!